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Flamenco in Seville


Flamenco in Seville


Is the birthplace of flamenco in Seville or Jerez? Or maybe another town in Spain? We could argue the origins. We could also argue about where to see the true flamenco - in a tablao, a bar or a street corner. We'll get to some of this below, as I don't feel like arguing! The important thing to know is that the cradle of flamenco is certainly in western Andalucia, and there are few better places for flamenco than Seville. This section covers a little of everything, but much like my bullfighting section, the information is specific to Seville and I will link to the experts who know the details much better than I do.


 

Topics in this section

Introduction

Pa' empezar...

Keep in mind flamenco is a genre, with many variations and types, some subtle and some very different. "New flamenco", "flamenco-fusion", and "flamenco-rock" are just a few of the contemporary sub-genres, and show how world and pop music have blended their way into a traditional genre. The variations of the traditional styles are the result of regional influences, and at times folk dance. The more contemporary sub-genres aside, there exist many types of traditional flamenco:

Alegrías
Bulerías
Cantiñas
Caña y Polo
Caracoles
Colombiana
Fandango
Granaína
Guajira
Jaleos
Malagueña
Martinete
Mirabrás
Romance
Rumba
Seguirilla
Sevillanas
Soleá
Tangos
Tanguillos
Taranto
Tientos
Verdiales
Zambra

It could take a while to describe all of these, and while I enjoy flamenco I would do you and everyone else a great disservice should I try to explain all of these in technical terms. So I send you to this section on esflamenco.com, where you can read more. Pay special attention to the list like mine above, but with links to explanations of each which covers the specifics of dancing, music, and timing. Probably the best place to learn about the origins and evolution of flamenco is the Flamenco Dance Museum (Museo del Baile Flamenco) in Seville, which is just a few years old. The museum is wonderful, and they use plenty of new technology (in a good way) in several interactive exhibits.

 

Tickets to Flamenco Shows

Entradas para espectáculos flamencos

Deciding on which show is best for you can include many factors, including location, services, length of the performance, type of venue...well, there are several things to consider. You may want a queiter place where you can concentrate on the performance, or the thought of not enjoying a cold beer or glass of sherry during a show may frighten you away. When you arrive it is also hard to get information on all of the possible shows. My coworker Thorsten and I began thinking about what it was like to visit and consider these options. We decided to visit as many venues in Seville as we could, take some photos, and list everything that makes each place unique. The result is a new site, flamencotickets.com, where you can read about the shows, see photos, videos and purchase your tickets in advance! If you need help deciding on which show is best for you just send us an email from the site and we will offer our personal advice.

- Flamencotickets.com

Tablaos in Seville

Tablaos

Tablaos are where you'll see the professional quality and choreographed shows, although most would say it's just as good in the Cass de la Memoria or Casa Carmen Arte Flamenco (see below). Artists can range from the nationally to internationally known, and the dress and costumes are superb. Many shows offer dinner or just a drink, and the prices will be the most expensive for enjoying flamenco. While some people and guide books comment on these as tourist traps there is plenty to enjoy - for a price - and some of the best quality shows take place in tablaos. As I recommend for most of them, skip the dinner and take the drink only option. What is the difference between these establishments (tablaos) and the ones I list below? The show is longer, more choreographed and there are many more performers. Some tablaos also attract crowds of tourists, piling off their hired buses in search of flamenco.

El Arenal
Address:  c/ Rodo, 7 (Arenal). telephone: 954 216 492 web: tablaoelarenal.com
A tablao that's been around for years, situated in a renovated 17th century building. Choose from a show with dinner or just a drink (cheaper) in a cozy atmosphere where you can get a close view of a show. I saw my first show in El Arenal some 15 years ago, opening my eyes and mind to flamenco.

El Patio Sevillano
Address: Paseo Colon (Arenal). telephone: 954 222 068 web: elpatiosevillano.com
Founded in 1952 and moved to its current location in 1973, this is one of the first tablaos in Sevilla. Flamenco shows take place in a typical Andalusian patio and the building is located right next to the Plaza de Toros and the river. Another place with choice of a show with dinner or just a drink (cheaper option).

El Palacio Andaluz
Address: c/ Maria Auxiliadora, 18 (Centro). telephone: 954 534 720
Lights, luxury and a big venue. Located on a large avenue catch a glimpse from an outside to see one of the most upscale tablaos in Sevilla. Another place to choose dinner with the show or just a drink.

Los Gallos
Address: Plaza de Santa Cruz 11. (Santa Cruz). telephone: 954 216 981 web: tablaolosgallos.com
Founded in 1966, Los Gallos is in the heart of Santa Cruz and a few blocks away from the Jardines Murillo, with 2 shows every night. No dinner option.

Flamenco shows in Seville

espectaculos de flamenco

In the two establishments listed below you'll also find excellent, professional artists, often times the same who perform in the more expensive tablaos. Prices will be less and student discounts at times are available. One of my favorites is Auditorio Alvarez Quintero which has nightly shows in an historic home renovated to include a stage plus a small art gallery. The family and people behind the scenes have many, many years of experience with the local flamenco scene and have vast knowledge of flamenco in Seville. Casa de la Memoria, where you can see an affordable show is another small venue. In reports from others and in my opinion, the quality of the shows at Auditorio Alvarez Quintero and Casa de la Memoria are on par with the tablaos above. Note that many of the artists and dancers may move back and forth from these smaller venues to the larger tablaos. What is the difference between a smaller venues and the tablaos? There are fewer performers, the shows are often more improvised and last about an hour. Still, many would consider these smaller places to be a better show. The audience tends to be more intimate - couples and small groups of friends and visitors - and less the tourist bus scene. These places are a better show in my opinion.

Casa de la Memoria
Address: c/Ximénez de Enciso, 28 (Santa Cruz) telephone: 954 560 670. web: casadelamemoria.com
Flamenco from 15 €, with two shows every night. Students at local schools who are very talented perform in the 18th century patio, making it a unique venue for flamenco. The location is also a museum for the sefardi culture, one of the few centers featuring the history of the Jewish inhabitants of the city.

Auditorio Alvarez Quintero
Address: c/ Alvarez Quintero 48, (Santa Cruz). telephone: 954 293 949 web: alvarezquintero.com
Quality flamenco shows, with prices starting at 17 €. The venue is smaller, located in the patio of a 18th century buiklding wihc is also an art gallery. The family who owns the venue has been involved in the Seville flamenco scene for many years, and works hard to find quality local talent for the shows. The small space means you will not be far from the stage!

Flamenco Thursdays

Jueves Flamenco


Jueves FlamencoThe Jueves Flamenco series sponsored by Fundación El Monte (now Cajasol), is one of the best ways to see some of the best current flamenco artists. Concerts vary, from traditional dance or guitar to the more innovative, such as jazz and flamenco fusion. But the shows are always excellent, and occur just about every Thursday night during the spring except for a few holidays. The program ends in late May, so you will have to wait until the following year at the moment! Tickets can be purchased ahead of time through the Cajasol Online ticket sales ( there is an English version of the page). When the new schedule is available it will be posted here.



Flamenco Bars in Seville and other locations

bares, otro locales

From the improvised and exciting to only singing or guitar you can find some great shows with a little neighborhood atmosphere in these places. Some have regular flamenco nights where you can catch a local act. While most - but not all - will lack the professional talent there's plenty of passion in their performances and you may find you enjoy these performances more than the above shows!

Asociacion Antigua de Sevilla
Address: c/Castellar, 50 (Arenal). telephone:
Gifted amateurs with tickets starting around 3€. This is one of many peñas in Seville, and I will soon launch a larger list. They also have live jazz and other music, as well as workshops everyone can participate in.

Lo Nuestro
Address: c/Betis, 31 (Triana).
A fixture on calle Betis for years it's a great place for a little flamenco with a group playing just about every night. A nice break from the discotecas and other bars with bad pop music on calle Betis.

La Taberna
Address: Triana - c/Duarte, 3 (Triana).
A great place for an improvised show just down the street from Lo Nuestro. Drinks are all you pay, after that sit back and enjoy the flamenco - normally signing and guitar.

Casa Anselma 

Address:   Triana - c/Pagés del Corro, 49 (Triana).
One of the best known bars of the Triana flamenco scene where Sevillanas is common.

Simpecao

Address: Triana - Paseo de la O - riverwalk (Triana).
Take in a little flamenco right on the shore of the river. Improvised and spontaneous, it's a great place to for flamenco in Triana. This section of the riverwalk is in much better shape than it was 10 years ago!

La Madrugá

Address: Triana- c/Salado (Triana).
Close to the Plaza de Cuba and plenty of places to ear. Live flamenco weekly.

Taberna Flamenca

Address: Arenal - c/Adriano (Arenal).
In the heart of the Arenal nightlife, and close to the Plaza de Toros.

La Carboneria

Address: Santa Cruz - c/Levies 18 (Santa Cruz).
Famous from it's mention in almost every guide book about Sevilla, it's still worth a trip. Free music, often Flamenco, can be found in the back covered terraza, popular in the summer and winter. The front bar with a more rustic, winter pub atmosphere includes a piano, stone walls and floors, fireplaces and wooden tables and chairs. A mix of people, from pijo to earthy, spanish to every nationality under the sun, with plenty of Americans if here for only a day or two. Aside from it's reputation as a tourist bar, when there's a live act and I've got a friend in town they always come away liking the place.

Lola de los Reyes

Address: Avda Blas Infante (Los Remedios).
More upscale clientele in Los Remedios.

El Rejoneo

Address: Avda. Blas Infante (Los Remedios).
Don't be afraid to get up and dance en El Rejoneo, as many join in as the night moves on.

El Tamboril

Address: Plaza de Santa Cruz (Santa Cruz). telephone:
A bar where you can watch and listen to a little flamenco, or join in with locals dancing Sevillanas.

El Perro Andaluz

Address: c/Bustos Tavera (Santa Catalina).
Flamenco Thursdays! Weekly performances which are free. Sometimes the acts start a little later than they say on the bill.

Tertulia Flamenca

Address: c/Castilla (Triana).
Flamenco Fridays!

Larger Venues

Estadios y auditorios

Some of the best known performers make Seville a priority on their tours. Below you will find some of the larger venues where "something big" may be coming.

El Palenque

Address: (La Cartuja). telephone:
Closer to the center of Sevilla than the Estadio Olimpico and an indoor place for off weather nights. El Palenque hosts international and national acts frequently.

Teatro Central

Address: (La Cartuja). telephone:
A mix of the arts with mainly theatre and music performances. Generally plenty of flamenco and other contemporary music each month.

Sala Joaquín Turina. Centro Cultural El Monte

Address: (Centro). telephone:
From September through May, this venue offers flamenco dance and music performances as a part of it's Jueves Flamenco program.

Teatro Lope de Vega

Address: (Arenal). telephone:
Aside from opera, theatre and the symphony you'll find an occasional flamenco performance by some of the best artists in the world. Very convenient to the center.

Flamenco Festivals and Events in Seville

Festivales y Eventos

There are regular events and festivals which you can plan around if you want to see more than one act. A small sampling for Seville and neighboring cities and towns. Also keep in mind that there are certain foundations and concert series which will bring weeks or months of concerts in Seville.

Bienal de Flamenco

Location: Various Venues
Dates: September - October 2010
Web: bienal-flamenco.org
Every two years Sevilla plays host to one of the premier flamenco festivals in the world, always featuring some of the best acts. From the largest of venues to the smaller peñas in the city you will have plenty to see between the beginning of September and early October. The activity draws people in from Spain and the rest of the world. The next date is 2008.


Feria de Abril


Location: Fair Grounds (Los Remedios)
Dates: April
Web: Exploreseville Guide to Feria
The Feria de Abril is a great time to see what many consider the typical Andalucia dance of Sevillanas. While well known in Seville and Spain it may not be what the typical tourist is expecting when looking for Flamenco. Sevillanas is perhaps a type of flamenco (some would argue this) but with different timing and a different style of dance from the foot-stomping you'll see in a tablao. The Feria takes place on the other side of the river and breathes a little life into Los Remedios.


Guitarra Córdoba Festival

Location: Córdoba
Dates: July
Web: guitarracordoba.com
From Flamenco to jazz the Cordoba Guitar Festival promises to be a great event just a train ride away in the city of Córdoba. Keep in mind this is not a flamenco only festival, but there are always good flamenco guitarists to catch during the two or so weeks of the event. A sampling from last year's list includes Paco de Lucia, Al Di Meola, Bob Dylan, Stanley Jordan and more. For 2005 the dates are 1 - 16 July, and the acts are yet to be set. You can see the information from 2004 on the official site.


Flamenco Classes in Seville

Escuelas de Flamenco

While many people come to Seville to study the language, there are thousands who arrive to for flamenco courses. Or perhaps you want to combine the two. If this will be your first time taking classes here is a short report from sevilla5.com about the first day of class in Taller Flamenco. Below is a list of some schools with web sites. There are many more schools in Seville, so consider this a list to start your search.

Taller Flamenco

Address: Calle Peral 49 telephone: (34) 954 564 234
web: tallerflamenco.com
Beginners to advanced: Dance & technique, guitar, compas & palmas, workshops & group classes, sevillanas, plus classes for teachers.

Escuela Flamenca Juan Polvillo

Address: Calle Castellar 71, 2º Izq. telephone: (34) 954 909 115
web: escuelaflamenca.com
Beginners to advanced: group, intensive, technique, "duende", compas & palmas, sevillanas.

Estudio Flamenco Carmen de Torres

Address: c/ Lepanto 7. telephone: (34) 954 164 744
web: flamenco-carmendetorres.com
Various courses. Located in Castilleja de la Cuesta (5 minute drive from Triana)

Academia Musicala

Address: c/ Doña María Coronel, 10 . telephone: (34) 954 221 333

Academia de Baile de Manolo Marin

Address: c/ Rodrigo de Triana, 30. telephone: (34) 954 340 519

Escuela de Danza Sevilla

Address: Calle Sor Ángela de la Cruz, 29. telephone: (34) 954 560 144

Cristina Heeren Flamenco Foundation

Address: c/ Fabiola 1. telephone: (34) 954 228 879 web: flamencoheeren.com
Professional school with year and summer courses.

Buying Flamenco CDs and Music


Comprar música: CDs y más

Compás Sur

Address: Cuesta del Rosario, 7-F. web: compas-sur.com
Located between the Alfalfa and Plaza Salvador, this is perhaps Seville's best known music store will you find CDs for just about any type of flamenco there is.

 


 

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Editor: Jeff Spielvogel
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