I am slowly putting the finishing touches on my menu reader,
one which is more specific to Seville, but will also help
you when dining out in many parts of Spain. Once finished,
I will place a link in this section. For now you can refer
to the food dictionary in either English
to Spanish, or Spanish
to English.
The purpose of this intro is to describe how this section
is organized, what the little symbols mean and a little
note on how to read the addresses. The listings are broken
down by neighborhood, and at the top of each section I offer
a small description of the location. Listings go from more
expensive to cheap. You will see the following symbols used:
: Price, from
4 (expensive) to 1 (cheap), this is to offer an idea of the price range.
: Address of
the establishment. Important note: "c/" means
"Calle", as in "Street".
: Telephone,
if available. Many do not have listings in phone books nor
offer business cards.
: Web page, if
available.
: Type of food.
This is a tough one, and I have used my own system of classifying.
It is certainly easy to tell you if food comes from a certain
region. In many cases I have used such words as "New
Cuisine" (applying new techniques from the cooking
schools in Spain) or "Creative" to describe a
higher level of creativity in the recipes. There are also
regional classifications, as well as "Andalusian"
and "Typical Andalusian", with "Typical Andalusian"
something like going out for tapas in my mother-in-law's
kitchen (good, home-cooked, and little variation from the
typical dishes of this region). Two notes to keep me alive
if my mother-in-law should read this: 1) nowhere on earth,
including the best bars in Seville, will you find cooking
as good as in her house, and 2) little variation is a good
thing.
El Centro can mean a lot of things to people, but I refer
to it as around the main shopping district, close to calles
Sierpes and Tetuan and Plaza del Duque. It borders the Alfalfa,
Santa Cruz, Arenal and Alameda neighborhoods.
Casa
Cuesta |
:
c/ Zaragoza 50 (near Plaza Nueva). :
954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
: Andalusian.
The Casa Cuesta location in Triana has a history of over
100 years (founded in 1880). The location in the center
has a history of less than a year! Still, the folks at Casa
Cuesta have of course benefited from running a restaurant
and tapas bar for more than a century, and that experience
shows in the new location. My recommendation would be to
arrive early, as the bar area for tapas is much smaller
than the Triana location. Once you get a spot at the bar,
take a look at the long list of tapas covering just about
every genre: pescado (fish), mariscos (shellfish), carnes (meat), chacina (cured
meats such as jamón, caña de lomo, chorizo)
and a number of specials.
La Alacena de San
Eloy |
: c/ San Eloy 31. : 954 215 580
: Andalusian / Wine bar
Maybe the best wine selections in a tapas bar in all of
Seville. Opened in early 2005, this is the original location
with and orange interior and perhaps worse decoration than
the location on calle Aguilas. With either location it is
recommended to forget the color and take a seat. If you
prefer a smoke-free atmosphere take a seat in the wine cellar
itself. Well, it's really just a glass-enclosed, climate
controlled room with a few tables. This place is often packed
so the seating wanders around to some interesting locations
behind the bar. Some very good, and original, tapas to go
with the wine itself. Some tapas even come with their own
wine, which must be sipped to bring out the true flavor
of the food. If you are closer to the Alfalfa try the location
on calle Aguilas (see just below). A note for sidra (cider) lovers, as there are two common types you can find
in Seville: a natural more cloudy, and less sweet type,
as well as a sweeter, clearer kind, similar to many of the
bottled ciders. Here you will be served the more natural
and less sweet kind, one I have had a hard time liking...
Bar
Santa Marta|
: Plaza
San Andrés. :
:
Typical Andalusian
My question is – does this place hold the world’s
record for the largest flamenquin? I think they
might, at least for one regularly served in a bar. What
is a flamenquin? It’s pork wrapped in ham
and filled with cheese that is deep fried. This one is at
least a foot long. Other recommended dishes include solomillo whisky, arroz (on Saturdays and Sundays),
and the frito variado. The plaza de San Andrés
is one of my favorite outdoor spots to sit and eat –
very large with plenty of people passing by, and a church
as the backdrop. The owner, Rafael, has to be one of the
nicest fellows around, and also owns Apartments San Andres,
a great place to stay in Seville.
Cafe Bar La Universal |
: Plaza
Salvador. :
: Andalusian / Creative
Right off of Plaza Salvador, Cafe Bar La Universal is a
popular spot which is often packed. They have some not so
typical tapas and foods to choose from and outdoor seating
is the best (inside they somehow always have the heat on).
Tables outside wrap around the corner bar. One waiter in
particular is known for his never-ending sense of humor
- you'll know when you get him.
- fideitos de Cádiz (noodles, olive oil
and garlic)
- tortilla de verduras (omelet with vegetables)
Lizarran |
:
Javier Lasso de la Vega, 14. :
954 909 199. : lizarran.com
: Northern Spain
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? Well, it's a
fun chain restaurant and an interesting way to enjoy tapas.
Make your way inside and get a seat at the bar or a table
and grab a plate. Then help yourself, literally, to anything
you want to eat. There are always a number of cold tapas
along the bar , with the hot ones coming out of the kitchen
(listen for the bell, and then the waiters bring the hot
ones around to everyone). Everything is on a slice of bread
with a toothpick. When you're done they count the toothpicks
- the flat ones cost less than the round ones - and give
you your bill. As for the tapas there are tons to choose
from: sausages, chicken, seafood, ham, chorizo, vegetables...even
a spring roll. Basically if they can fit it on a piece of
bread they will serve it up! If you are choosing locations,
I would recommend the one in Nervión over the one
in the center. In Nervión there are more customers.
Thus more of the hot tapas come from the kitchen than the
center location.
Blanco Cerillo |
: c/ Jose de Velilla. :
: Andalusian
They have some other tapas as well, but why
bother when they have perfected boquerones en adobo. If I had to pick one food for the rest of
my life it would be this. The bar is very small and outdoor
seating may be a few minutes wait on a nice day. Same (and
the only) waiter, Emilio, has been there for over 10 years.
I make sure I go almost once a week. Boquerones are best ordered in tapa or media ración, and it's your choice with homemade mayo or without.
Sadly, we don't see Emilio working the tables outside anymore,
and wonder where he is. He was my favorite sevillista,
and always took good care of us.
- boquerones en adobo con mayonesa (fried little
fish marinated in vinegar, garlic and spices)
- pavia (ok, had to add one more - this is merluza,
or hake, lightly fried)
El Patio de San
Eloy |
: c/ San Eloy 9. :
: Andalusian
As typical a Sevillian atmosphere as you can get
once inside. The lower level is large and open, with ceramic
tile benches/bleachers in the back where you can sit down
and munch on olives or little sandwiches (montaditos). A large number of these montaditos and sandwiches
are sacked high behind the bar, ready to be heated up and
served (though one wonders about the freshness without refrigeration).
Surrounding the bar are several groups of tables. Upstairs
there is a dining area, but no real dining goes on in this
place. In fact, I really recommend this as a place for a
cold beer. The waiters always seem friendly enough, but
after having seen them pull the bad part of a piece of jamón off a montadito before heating it up (more than
a few times), I'm not too "keen" on eating much
aside from the olives.
La Flor de mi Viña |
: c/ Jose de Velilla. :
: Andalusian
Just try and find this place. If you do, you're in luck.
I recommend ordering a plato - 3 to 4€ -
for the best value. Still, everything eaten in La Flor de
mi Viña - whether plato or tapa - is done tapas style: consumed at the bar or little tables
with stools (no chairs). Frequented by a lot of people who
work in El Corte Inglés or other nearby businesses.
I think there are 6 or 7 brothers who work behind the bar,
all sharing a family resemblance. Very attentive and nice
folks. This was dubbed bar barato by my sister
and brother-in-law a while back. This is good standard Andalusian
cooking at very good prices.
- solomillo whisky (pork in brandy and garlic
sauce)
- choco a la riojana (squid)
- arroz (rice)
- albondigas (meatballs - not the italian
kind)
- pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken)
- urta con tomate (fish)
Bodegon Alfonso
XII |
: c/ Alfonso XII 33. :
954 211 251
: Typical Andalusian
Near the Museum of Bellas Artes. They have a very large
menu and a good amount of indoor seating, as well as a menu
in English. Tapas can be ordered at the tables or the bar,
which makes it an easy place to sit and enjoy a tapa or
two. The regular bartenders are nice fellows, some of whom
I remember from 12 years ago. If you like garlic and mayo,
order patatas a la brava - just about the best
in the center. And they always have arroz (rice)
- every day.
- patatas a la brava (potatoes with garlic mayo
and hot sauce)
- arroz (rice)
- flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled
with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
- chipirón a la plancha (grilled squid)
- solomillo al whisky (pork in brandy or whisky
and garlic)
Bodeguita del Salvador |
: Plaza Salvador 6. :
954 561 833
: Andalusian
More of a place to drink a beer on Saturday or Sunday afternoon
in Plaza Salvador. People crowd into the bar to get a drink
and then make their way outside into the plaza or on the
steps of the church, often sharing a table with others.
Some days it can be difficult to make your way to the bar,
but few other bars have tables in the same plaza. More recently
you'll find some kind of live music outside.
- cerveza!
- jamón (ham)
- aceitunas (olives)
- queso (cheese)
- montaditos (sandwiches - various)
Los Soportales |
: Plaza Salvador 7. :
: Andalusian
More of a place to drink a beer on Saturday or Sunday afternoon
in Plaza Salvador. Didn't I just say that? This bar happens
to be 30 centimeters, maybe less, from Bodeguita del Salvador,
and on many days, if one of them is too crowded, I go to
the other. They are so close they almost seem like the same
bar. Offering a few tapas and similarly cold beer, the only
difference may be the type of glasses used at each bar.
Don't be surprised if you find yourself visiting both in
the same trip without noticing.
The Alfalfa is the area just above Plaza Salvador (on
a map, and maybe the only hill in the center) leading up
to calle Aguilas and ending around Plaza Encarnación.
It borders the shopping district, Santa Cruz, Santa Catalina
and Puerta Carmona.
La Alacena de San
Eloy |
: c/ Aguilas. :
: Andalusian / Wine bar
Maybe the best wine selections in a tapas bar in all of
Seville. Opened in August 2005, the second location is just
a few blocks from Plaza Alfalfa. The first location
opened earlier in 2005 on Calle San Eloy. There is a large
selection of good tapas, but no non-smoking section in this
location. Some of the tapas even come with their own wine
which must be sipped to bring out the true flavor of the
food. A note for sidra (cider) lovers, as there
are two common types you can find in Seville: a natural
more cloudy, and less sweet type, as well as a sweeter,
clearer kind, similar to many of the bottled ciders. Here
you will be served the more natural and less sweet kind,
one I have had a hard time liking...
Bar Europa |
: c/ Siete Revuelta 35 / Plaza
del Pan. :
954 221 354
:
Andalusian / Basque
A block behind Iglesia Salvador, they always have tables
in the Plaza del Pan. Tapas range from traditional to a
little experimentation. A little pricey, especially considering
some of the portions are very small (I swear my last tapa
of solomillo had two pieces, each the size of a two euro
coin). But the food is very good - a great place to stop
when you're finishing up the day in the shopping district
and want a small tapa. But if you come looking to fill up
make sure you have enough cash!
- salmorejo (thicker, sweeter gazpacho)
- croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
- espinacas (stewed spinach with garbanzos)
- butifarra (sausage from the north!)
Café
Bar Habanita |
:
c/ Golfo, 3. : 954 220 202
: Cuban / Vegetarian
/ International
This comes up in the vegetarian and Cuban sections for it’s
selection of veggie and vegan friendly dishes. But there’s
also meat! Plus this place deserves a mention in several
sections. Cuban favorites like ropa vieja and a
host of original drinks are a good reason to dine in La
Habanita. It is located down an alley in a small “plaza”
away from the noise of the Alfalfa. Several tables are outside,
in plain view of a very hungry dog who is often salivating
over the tapas from his first floor apartment. Inside you'll
find a decent sized dining room. A well-translated menu
(color coded for English and Spanish) and some experienced
English speakers who work the tables make this friendly
for travelers. And I challenge you to sit for lunch without
seeing at least one group of tourists.
- alcachofas (artichokes served with balsamic
vinegar and olive oil)
- revuelto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms)
- solomillo con dátiles y bacon (pork
loin cooked with dates and bacon)
- croquetas de roquefort (roquefort croquettes)
- mojito (rum, sugar, mint lemon and more in
what is perhaps the city's best mojito)
Bar Alfalfa | -
:
Plaza Alfalfa. :
: International / Italian
Spanish take on Italian food? One of the owners must be
Italian, and while they offer a few general spanish tapas,
they also offer plenty tapas with more Italian flavor. This
is a small corner bar with a nice atmosphere, but it get's
crowded easily and table space is often hard to come by.
But the view is one of my favorite people watching spots,
just at the entrance to Plaza Alfalfa with plenty of chaos
to keep my eyes busy.
- pan de la casa (like bruschetta, if
I'm spelling that right)
- provolone... (it's fried provolone in a cazuela)
- mozzarella de búfalo (buffalo mozzarella)
- surtido de quesos (cheese plate)
Coloniales | -
: Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19. :
: Andalusian
Inside and outside seating, but if you want to eat outside
get there early and put your name on the chalk board. Some
days you may wait 30 minutes, but you can always eat at
the bar or the dining room in the back. Tapas range from
1,75 - 3,50€ but they are HUGE, which makes
eating at Coloniales very cheap. These folks may
be the gods of sauces - try the solomillo in perhaps
seven different ways. I have yet to eat anything in Coloniales
I don't like, and have often thought of giving up cooking
at home. I likely would if the wait weren't so long.
- solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and
garlic sauce)
- solomillo al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
- solomillo a la castellana (pork loin with garlic,
serrano ham and mushrooms)
- champiñones rebozados (fried mushrooms
stuffed with ham and chorizo)
- tostadas / pan de la casa (various breads covered
with different toppings)
- pollo con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond
sauce)
- manjar blanco (chicken in sauce)
- calamares del campo (fried green pepper and
onion - not squid)
- prueba de chorizo (cooked chorizo)
Bar Manolo |
: Plaza Alfalfa. :
: Typical Andalusian
One of my all-time favorites, as Bar Manolo was the first
place I tried anything en adobo. Located in the
Alfalfa with a good amount of outdoor seating, although
tables can be hard to come by on a nice night. Tapas, media raciones and raciones are
all generous in size, and very reasonably priced: 1,30 -
2€. This is a favorite for locals and the menu is
about as straight Andalusian as you can get. I think of
it like a Sevillian soul food restaurant. No pretty presentation,
just large portions of home-cooked food. The serranito,
a sandwich of pork loin, ham, green tomatoes and a fried
green pepper, is one of the best in the city. How they get
the whole thing on the bread and keep it so tender, well
that's one of life's little mysteries.
- gambas rebozadas (fried shrimp)
- pavia de merluza (fried hake - fish - loin)
- solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and
garlic sauce)
- gazpacho
- gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp in shells)
- serranito (sandwich: pork loin, ham, green
tomatoes and a fried green pepper)
Bar Kiko |
: c/ Herbolarios, 17. :
: Typical Andalusian
Mom and pop bar with great tapas. Two dining rooms - one
I like to call the "fire trap" as it is located
behind the kitchen with no other exit. The other is a bit
larger and located next door. A few tables are outside as
well. If you eat one thing here make it the lagrimitas
de pollo. This is another place in the Alfalfa where
the menu is very typical Andalusian food. Tapas range from
1,50 - 2,50€. And don't be fooled by the Sevilla and
Betis football team crests hanging behind the bar. They're
trying to accommodate everyone, but they are all sevillistas! Still, one can make an exception to sample some home-cooked
food, and they are very nice people.
- lagrimitas de pollo (chicken marinated in vinegar
- "adobo-like")
- croquetas (croquettes)
- san jacobo (ham and cheese deep-fried)
- pisto (stew)
Arenal is the neighborhood between the Cathedral and the
river, beginning at Avda. Constitución and ending
at the river and the bridges leading to Triana and Los Remedios.
It borders the Plaza de Armas / San Pablo neighborhood.
La
Isla|
:
c/ Arfe 25. : 954 215 376
: Andalusian / Galician
Perhaps one of the best places to try any kind of seafood,
and on several occasions we have spotted the members of
Real Betis eating in La Isla. While this will cost you more
than your average restaurant in Seville, the quality of
the seafood is the best in the city and brought in from
the coast everyday. I highly recommend dining for a full
meal in La Isla, but you can also try a few tapas at the
bar without the full price.
Sierra Mayor |
: c/ Joachin Guichot 5. : 954 561 210
: Andalusian / Extremaduran
A great place to go for a variety of famous jamón and cured meats such as chorizo, caña
de lomo...you name it: if it's cured pig, it's in Sierra
Mayor. The fuentes (platters) give you a chance
to try a little bit of everything, although it can
be a little expensive. Tapas range from 1,80 - 3,00€.
A large bar area with a number of tables generally mean
there is plenty of space. The tables outside tend to go
first on a nice night. During the holidays they hang little
pig ornaments with a Santa hat on them: the front shows
the typical smiling pig. The back-side appropriately shows
his butt.
- fuente de sierra mayor (a little of everything
in the cured meat department)
- fuente de queso (many cheeses)
- croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
- tostada o pan de la casa (various breads/toast
with choice of toppings)
Meson de la Infanta |
:
c/ Dos de Mayo, 26. : 954 561 554
: Andalusian
Just about everything is good, especially the cured meats
such as the mouthwatering jamón. Just down
the street from the Teatro Maestranza, they offer a typical
spanish menu, a large bar and an historic atmosphere. When
coming from the Cathedral look for the ceramic tile with
the Infanta.
La Moneda |
: c/ Almirantazgo 4. : 954 223 642
: Andalusian
Not far from the cathedral and post office as you enter
the Arenal. More expensive, and tapas are smaller, but very
good. Expect a more upscale crowd here - I saw some local
actors come in who were treated like royalty as we were
passed over, but not for long. The service tends to be pretty
good.
- garbanzos con bacalao (fish and garbanzo stew)
- langostinos con bacon (shrimp wrapped in bacon)
- pez espada empanado (fried swordfish)
El Rincón
del Pulpo Gallego |
: c/ Harinas 21. : 954 224 311
: Galician / Asturian
Great Galician bar. Don't be fooled by other ones in Seville
as this is the only place to go (especially not the one
close to Plaza del Duque, where they served me up a nice
piece of metal with my tapa, told me "these things
happen", and then charged me for it after I spent 10
minutes in the bathroom dislodging the piece of metal from
my throat). Ok, so that happened SOMEWHERE ELSE. You won't
find that at El Rincón Gallego. Instead drink the sidra - an alcoholic cider typical of Asturias
but also served in Galicia. This is the sweeter type of sidra, and my favorite. My tapa favorites are chorizo
criollo, mejillones al vapor and of course the pulpo. Tapas range in price from 1,75 - 2,75€. Look for the
purple octopus on the sign outside and you're there. Damn!
They took away the purple pulpo. So just look for
the sign.
- empanada de atún (tuna empanada - accept
no other)
- pulpo gallego (octopus served with boiled potatoes)
- mejillones al vapor (steamed mussels)
- berberechos al vapor (steamed clams, or similar
to clams)
- bacalao a la gallega (fish with a few veggies)
- chorizo criollo (homemade sausage served with
sauce)
- sidra (cider)
Bodeguita
Romero|
:
c/ Harinas 10. : 954 229 556
: Andalusian
Another place which is worth a stop just for their specialty
– a montadito de pringa, a mixture of very
tender roasted pork mixed with a small amount of the ever
so tasty tocino (hog fat) and morcilla (blood
sausage). Sounds scarier than it really is. And once you
take a bite you simply won't care what's in it. Other tapas
are on the menu and good, but nothing beats the specialty
of the house.
- montadito de pringa (pork sandwich)
Coloniales | -
: Calle Jimios (corner of Garcia Vinuesa). :
: Andalusian
After years of success in the Plaza Crsito de Burgos, the folks at Coloniales have opened a second location just a few blocks from the Cathedral. No outdoor seating, but maybe with the crowds divided between two locations the wait won't be so long! Tapas range from
1,75 - 3,50€ but they are HUGE, which makes
eating at Coloniales very cheap. These folks may
be the gods of sauces - try the solomillo in perhaps
seven different ways. I have yet to eat anything in Coloniales
I don't like, and have often thought of giving up cooking
at home. I likely would if the wait weren't so long.
- solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and
garlic sauce)
- solomillo al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
- solomillo a la castellana (pork loin with garlic,
serrano ham and mushrooms)
- champiñones rebozados (fried mushrooms
stuffed with ham and chorizo)
- tostadas / pan de la casa (various breads covered
with different toppings)
- pollo con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond
sauce)
- manjar blanco (chicken in sauce)
- calamares del campo (fried green pepper and
onion - not squid)
- prueba de chorizo (cooked chorizo)
Bar
Hijos de E. Morales |
:
c/ Garcia de Vinuesa :
: Andalusian
Just a block behind the large Horno San Buenaventura on
Avda. Constitución, this could be the twin to El
Rinconcillo. Of interest are the two sides of the bar with
separate entrances. The corner location has high ceilings,
shelves with plenty of liquor bottles and the old wooden
bar just like El Rinconcillo. The other side is darker,
with some seating and floor to ceiling height clay containers
that at one point likely stored wine or other alcoholic
refreshments. Montaditos are the specialty with
a cold beer or a glass of fino.
Casa
de Extremadura|
:
c/ Fernandez y Gonzalez 14. : 954 225 606
: Extremaduran
Think of it as a bar/restaurant/cultural center, although
the front looks just like a bar. The back is a socios (members) area complete with a TV, tourist information for
Extremadura and a home like atmosphere. The front is a nice
place for tapas, a meal or the menu del día,
which we tried for a little under 7 Euros. Excellent homemade
food from the region, noticeable in the cocido we
enjoyed - a stew complete with garbanzos, some vegetables, morcilla (blood sausage), pork and tocino (fat!). A very good meal for a reasonable price.
Freiduría
La Isla|
:
c/ Garcia de Vinuesa. :
: Andalusian / Pescaito Frito
Having moved from a side street and renovated to provide
a bright, clean interior on a street corner, Freiduría
La Isla is just a block from the Cathedral as you enter
the Arenal neighborhood. At least once you should experience
one of these places, where fried seafood is served up by
weight or quantity in round paper cones. Take your pick
from gambas rebozadas (shrimp), calamares (squid), adobo (fish marinated in vinegar and spices), huevas (fish eggs, fried of course), pescada (fish) and croquetas (croquettes, about the only
thing on the menu without fish). Then order a few bottles
of Cruzcampo or a can of Coke and enjoy. Freiduría
La Isla is a good location (most freidurías in Seville are less central), and there is some seating
if you choose to eat immediately. If not take it home with
you, but run - it's better to eat this hot than cold.
On the opposite side of the Cathedral from the Arenal,
Santa Cruz is the neighborhood behind the Alcazar and Cathedral
bordering Menéndez Pelayo and the Jardines Murillo.
It also borders the Alfalfa neighborhood and Puerta Carmona.
El Modesto |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 5. : 954 416 811
: Andalusian
One word for everything: delicious. Located near the Jardines
de Murillo with a little space at the bar and a lot
of outdoor seating. A more formal dining room is located
upstairs, but you can eat tapas at the bar for a reasonable
price. And for what you get it's really not that expensive.
I think the coquinas, or little clams, are likely
the best in Sevilla. We've also enjoyed the gambas al
ajillo, shrimp cooked with olive oil, garlic and hot
peppers. Don't be afraid to make barquitos when
you order this - that is, throw in little bits of bread
to soak up the sauce. A frito variado is always
a good choice, where you are served 4 to 5 types of fish
including calamares del campo, which despite their
name are not fish, rather fried onions and green peppers.
Finally solomillo al whisky is excellent here,
and it's my weakness when we dine out.
- frito variado (sampler of fried fish)
- fritura el modesto (fried onions, green peppers
and shrimp)
- solomillo whisky (pork loin cooked in brandy
or whisky)
- coquinas (little clams)
Casa
Roman |
:
c/ Jamerdana / Plaza de los Venerables, 1. : 954 228 483
: Andalusian
If you are looking for a little more upscale, but not too
upscale, this is a great bar in the heart of Santa Cruz,
located just next to the Hospital de los Venerables. You
know it's not too upscale because of the tables with little
stools that appear to be made for seating hobbits. The jamón comes highly recommended, by both my family and the stranger
next to me at the bar who thought I was a lost foreigner
having a hard time reading the menu. I also recommend the carillada (stewed pork) and queso (cured
manchego cheese). A number of outside tables are available
with a nice view of the plaza and other diners. There’s
just something about the atmosphere – decoration inside
and the feel of the pedestrian street outside – which
makes this a great place to be.
Bar la Estrella |
:
c/ Estrella 3. : 954 561 426
: Andalusian / Creative
What isn't good in Bar Estrella I don't know. It is tucked
away in a back street between the Alfalfa and Santa Cruz,
and offers 4 or 5 tables for outside dining which are almost
out of sight of the bar. Inside there's a bar area with
a few tables as well as a separate dining room. There is
also a very long list of tapas, including some specials
scribbled on the chalk board. Offering traditional spanish
food they also mix it up with a few more exotic recipes.
With tapas ranging from 1,80 - 4€, this is highly
recommended (and a favorite location for locals).
- langostinos con aguacate (A half of an avocado
stuffed with large prawns and covered with sauce)
- camembert frito - (fried camembert with raspberry
jam)
Bar Las Teresas |
:
c/ Santa Teresa, 2. : 954 213 069
: Andalusian
Between the Cathedral and the Plaza Santa Cruz you will
find a very picturesque intersection of pedestrian streets,
with a number of little bars. Las Teresas lies on a corner,
offering tapas and cold fino in an historic setting.
The walls are covered with photos of famous people, bullfighting
memorabilia, and a few curious antique restaurant and bar
utensils. Tapas range from 2 - 4€. Seems to be a perfect
place to stop for a cold drink and a tapa as you pay a visit
to the Santa Cruz quarter.
Las Columnas (Bodega
Santa Cruz) |
: c/ Rodrigo Caro / corner of
c/Mateos Gago. :
: Typical Andalusian
Close to the Cathedral with a sign that reads Bodega Santa
Cruz. Don't believe it - everyone here calls it Las Columnas.
There are a few tables inside and outside but in general
very little seating. People tend to crowd around the bar
to order tapas while the bartenders keep their tab running
on the bar in grease pencil. Most of the bartenders have
been in Las Columnas forever and are accustomed to helping
foreigners with their order, even if it means simply pointing
to the chalk board. The chaotic pace of the place means
their patience has a limit: don't be surprised if they walk
away as you decide, only to come back in 20 seconds to see
if you are ready. Always a mix of lost looking tourists
and locals. Tapas are between 1,40 - 2,20€, and if
you tip you may see them throw it through the Chicago Bulls
nerf hoop and into the pot. Damn, they renovated and the
nerf hoop is gone. Hooray - they added a refrigerated room
to keep the Cruzcampo extra cold! I have dreams about the ensaladilla at night...
- ensaladilla (potato salad with tuna, crab,
peas, carrots)
- flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled
with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
- pinchito de cerdo (brochette of seasoned pork)
- montaditos (grilled sandwiches - various)
- gazpacho
- pollo frito (fried morsels of chicken)
La
Fresquita|
:
c/Mateos Gago, 30 :
: Andalusian
Follow Mateos Gago until you see the Santa Cruz church,
and just opposite is La Fresquita. It's not uncommon to
hear processional music year round in this bar, and incense
is frequently burning. Inside there are plenty of pictures
from Semana Santa, someone serving up fino and cerveza. A few tables are also outside, as the
bar is a small one. Espinacas, aged manchego cheese and montaditos are the tapas of choice.
Santa Catalina is the area around the Iglesia Santa Catalina,
bordering around Plaza Encarnación, the Alfalfa,
Puerta Carmona and Puerta Osario. To the back bordering
calle Feria, the Alameda and Macarena neighborhoods.
El Rincóncillo |
: c/ Gerona 40 / Plaza de los
Terceros. :
954 223 183
: Typical Andalusian
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670, and if you visit
just one place in Santa Catalina, make it here! The current
owners are on their 8th generation dating back to 1800 or
so. You can never enter without seeing a tourist, so don't
expect that great discovery: an off the beaten path tapas
bar. El Rinconcillo has a positively wonderful atmosphere,
including a museum-like collection of (still full) bottles
of liquor, some as old as 70 - 80 years. They say representatives
from the liquor companies visit every so often to try and
buy the older bottles - but they're not parting with them.
A new addition is a more elegant dining room upstairs in
the old employee sleeping quarters, which offers complete
restaurant service. Downstairs is almost all tapas and raciones as you slide up to the bar or one
of the large barrels. Two small dining areas at the back
offer a quick dinner (no tapas). Despite the fame, the food
is cheap - tapas range in price from 1,60 - 3 €. Some
of the coldest beer in town as well as the normal bar offerings: fino, vino dulce and a strange house wine.
- jamón (ham)
- espinacas (cooked spinach)
- pavia de bacalao (fried loin of cod)
- bacalao con tomate (fish with tomato)
- caldereta (meat stew)
- queso (cured manchego cheese)
- caña de lomo (cured pork)
La
Giganta|
:
Plaza de los Terceros - c/ Alhóndiga, 6. : 954 210 975
: Andalusian / Creative
Another Santa Catalina favorite – I love my neighborhood
because just about every bar serves good food! Some original
recipes including wild mushrooms, chicken in a variety of
sauces, the ever popular solomillo (again with
a choice of sauces) as well as specials just about every
day. Also known for the house toasts (tostadas de la
casa), which doesn't translate into English well. La
Giganta is known for their sauces. When the weather is nice
they have seating outside next to Iglesia Santa Catalina.
When it's cold but dry they use the outdoor heaters so you
can still eat outside.
La Huerta |
: Plaza de los Terceros. :
: Andalusian / International / Vegetarian
Just down the street from my apartment with lots of outdoor
seating and very friendly owners. They offer some nice alternatives
to the normal tapas you find in Seville, as well as a lot
of vegetarian friendly dishes. The tabla de patatas comes with three amazing sauces. El secreto (shhh..don't
tell) is huge. Tapas range from 1,80 - 2,80€. A note
to diners in Plaza de los Terceros: there are three possibilities
for sitting outside and eating. You should be careful to
sit in the correct tables, which then determines what establishment
will serve you. Best to ask at La Huerta where to sit, so
you know where you'll be eating.
- tabla de patatas con 3 salsas (roast potatoes
with 3 dipping sauces)
- tabla de verduras (grilled vegetables)
- quiche de puerros (leak quiche)
- croquetas (choose from cheese, cauliflower,
shrimp)
- secreto (pork steak)
- berenjenas con miel (eggplant with honey)
El Colmao |
: Plaza Ponce de Leon, 5. :
: Spanish
This place often gets overlooked in Santa Catalina and the
Plaza de los Terceros area. It should not be missed if you
like wine and cheese (I know, you Carolina basketball fans
may have to overlook this one or swallow your pride). They
have a number of wines, be it of the day or of the week,
always changing their selection. They also have a very good
cheese plate and a seemingly endless menu including tapas, platos para compartir (plates to share), media
raciones and raciones. The media ración of ham is a great deal – 6 Euros for what could pass
as a ración. And the ham is good, not the
cheap stuff. Thankfully the outside tables are now autoservicio (no waiters). A good choice and it makes it cheaper than
the 15% service charge they used to have.
Los
Claveles |
:
Plaza de los Terceros :
: Andalusian
A new favorite watering hole of mine just across the street
from El Rinconcillo. I have yet to eat at the bar but I
know the woman in the kitchen can cook just by looking at
her. Mainly simple tapas to go along with the cold beer.
They have done some renovating, but the same old floor is
there as is the brick wall from who knows when (it's old).
The outside of the bar still sports the old advertisements
for fino. The bartenders are always friendly and
attentive. Lots of locals from the neighborhood, a good
spot to get a cold beer and something to munch on, then
head to one of the standing only tables to watch everyone
pass by in the plaza. Now complete with a new flat screen
television for watching the football matches. Unfortunately
the bar is closed on Sunday when most matches are scheduled.
Ajo Blanco |
: c/ Alhóndiga 19. : 954 229 320
: Andalusian / Mexican / Vegetarian
A little alternative in atmosphere, with plenty of Jazz
and a few Feria posters hanging on the walls. Music varies
from rock to light jazz, and a side business of tading and
buying used LPs has appeared. Small number of tables and
a little space at the bar to eat. Some dishes have an interesting
Mexican twist to them, all offered with a great hot sauce
on the side - you'll be warned "la salsa pica!" Prices range from 1.80 - 4€ per tapa. Some tapas,
such as the tejano, are very large.
- enchiladas (well, they're enchiladas - try
the chicken which is curry flavored)
- tejano con carne picada y frijoles (ground
beef or pork plus beans served in a crunchy corn tortilla)
- tarta vegetal con queso azul (vegetable "cake"
with blue cheese)
- ensalada de cous cous (cous cous salad)
- ajo blanco (white gazpacho made with almonds)
Rayas |
:
c/ Almirante Apodaca 1. : 954 221 746
: Dessert
Ice cream only, but probably the best on earth. Take your
pick from maybe 30 - they are all good. 2,50€ for
a small and a little more for a medium cup. Exotic flavors
whose names I can't pronounce nor write, as well as some
good, simple favorites like chocolate, vanilla, and banana!
This place is famous and anyone who knows anything about
ice cream in Sevilla knows the name Rayas. In winter when
it gets cold the shop closes and the owners open their bakery
/ chocolate shop next door. And not to worry - they still
offer ice cream, just a smaller selection.
Puerta Carmona is the area around the intersection of
calle Luis Montoto, Avda. Menéndez y Pelayo and calle
San Esteban. It borders Santa Cruz, the Alfalfa and Santa
Catalina. Crossing the main avenue of Menéndez y
Pelayo you reach La Buhaira and Nervión neighborhoods
(see below).
Becerrita |
: c/ Reacaredo 9. : 954 412 057. : becerrita.com
: Andalusian / Creative.
The Becerra family is well known in Seville, and Becerrita
is a good example of what the family has done well: one
generation handing over to the other. Father, Enrique, whose
name graces the family restaurant in the Arenal, leaves
Becerrita in the hands of his son, Jesús María
Becerra. As with Restaurante Enrique Becerra, seasonal/fresh
market often appear as specials on the menu. Much like Enrique
Becerra, many people come just for the tapas to enjoy great
cooking without the cost of a full meal. My favorites are
the ensaladilla de langostinos (potato salad with
shrimp) as well as the revuelto de chorizo y papas (Sausage and potato with eggs).
Further away on Avda. Menéndez Pelayo from Puerta
Carmona and Santa Cruz, Puerta Osario borders the Santa
Justa, Macarena and Santa Catalina neighborhoods.
Café
Bar Eme |
:
c/ Osario. :
: Typical Andalusian
Another place with what you’d call a typical Andalusian
kitchen, serving up a large and recommended cóctail
de mariscos (crab, fish and shrimp served on a bed
of lettuce covered with red - Spanish style - cocktail sauce).
This is the sweeter variety, not the spicy kind from the
U.S. that some of you may be used to. This is another place
which comes recommended from a very reliable source (family)
but I’ve yet to try.
- cóctail de mariscos (see above
description)
- montaditos (assorted little sandwiches)
Rincón
del Tito |
:
c/ Escuelas Pias. :
: Typical Andalusian
If there were a Bar Manolo II I would give the honor to
this place. The menu is about the same, portions a little
smaller, but at a very good price. Plenty of outdoor seating
along the busy Calle Escuelas Pias.
Quitapesares |
:
Plaza de Padre Jeronimo de Cordoba. :
: Typical Andalusian
Local flamenco singer and legend El Peregil owns this bar
in Santa Catalina. I often see him shopping for liquor and
bar supplies in Supermercado Mas y Mas, just down
the street. And when in the bar you always hear him telling
a story or two. While tapas can be found, they always appear
to be secondary to the beer, and El Peregil himself. That
is, this is a good place to have a drink and munch on something as you soak in the atmosphere and chatter of the regulars.
The Alameda neighborhood is named for the large open,
dirt plaza. It runs along calle Feria and the Macarena neighborhood
leading to the river and the Puente de la Barqueta.
La
Madraza|
:
c/ Peris Mencheta 21. : 954 908 188
: Andalusian / Creative / Vegetarian
Just off of calle Feria towards the Alameda is a restaurant
Markus of sevilla5.com showed me a few years ago. If you
want to get a seat, get there early so you can avoid the
wait, and this place is best for dinner. Original recipes
made from fresh ingredients make this a good choice. Large tapas make dinner the best value. I wish I could remember
what I've ordered, but I can't. A shame because it's one
of the better places to eat in the city. As I was recently
informed by a reader and should have mentioned after many
attempts - get here early! Try 9:30, or better even earlier
if you want to get a table. Still, it's worth the wait!
La Ilustre Victima |
: c/ - Doctor Letamendi 35. : 954 389 490
: International / Moroccan / Mexican
Middle Eastern and North African specialties plus original
Andalusian dishes in what turns into an alternative bar de copas later at night. A large menu of teas to
choose from plus some good Mexican food and a real beef
hamburger. Their baklava, or what are called pasteles
arabes, are small but delicious. They also offer cous
cous, shoarmas and some other tasty dishes.
Café-Bar
"El Ambigú" |
:
c/ Feria 47. : 954 381 015
: Andalusian / Creative
Located on Calle Feria they have a few outside tables but
offer more tables inside. Especially keep an eye on their
daily offerings listed on the chalkboard, which I've found
not only delicious but generous in size. I was full from
two tapas plus two beers for about 5,50€. If you go
a little more standard, the menu del día offers
a drink, your choice of dishes for 1st and 2nd courses and
dessert for around 6,80€. You come away very full.
I had an amazing piece of roast chicken (large and delicious)
and a great salad off the menu del día one day.
- pollo a la cerveza (when available)
- chorizo asturiano a la sidra (when available)
- merluza
Bar
Alcoy 10 |
:
c/ Alcoy 10. : 954 905 702
: Andalusian / Creative / International
Thanks to my parents for giving us the tip on this place.
Alcoy 10 is located a few blocks from the San Lorenzo church
on the corner of calle Alcoy and Teodosio. Seating includes
a small area at the bar for tapas, plus a few tables on
the terrace and a small dining room (no tapas in the dining
room). The chalkboard lists the daily options, with at least
1 or 2 new offerings each day. The food is a mix of a few
traditional dishes plus some innovative recipes from a French
chef. Presentation and preparation of the food is excellent,
often with an emphasis on contrasts for may dishes, such
as sweet to cancel out the salty, or cold with hot. Our solomillo al gorgonzola (pork loin with gorgonzola
sauce), was served on a bed of fresh fettuccini, which was
a nice change.
- solomillo al gorgonzola (pork loin with gorgonzola
served over pasta)
- queso de cabra gratinado (baked goat cheese
on bread)
- foie de pato sobre pan caliente (duck paté
served over toasted bread)
- solomillo al jerez (pork loin in a sweet sherry
sauce)
Restaurante
/ Bar Eslava|
:
c/ Eslava, 3 - 5. : 954 906 568
: Andalusian / Creative
Just next to the San Lorenzo church (located across from
the church bell tower) you'll find one of Seville's most
popular tapas bars. There is also a small dining room next
door, thus the two numbers on the address above and the
name "Restaurante / Bar"! Known for it's tasty
recipes, the bar is often crowded, so get here early. Lunch
can be a good time to make a visit, again a little early,
to try the menu del día.
The Macarena neighborhood borders the Alameda and Santa
Catalina leading to the Macarena church and the Andalusian
Parliament. Behind the Parliament building leading to the
Puente del Alamillo is considered the Macarena neighborhood
by many as well, although most of it was built in the 1950's
or later.
Bar
Yebra | -
:
Calle Medalla Milagrosa, 3. : 954 351 007
: Andalusian
Here is where it all began. Before El Rincón de la
Buhaira and Tapas Viapol this was, and still is, the place
to eat in the Macarena if not all of Sevilla. This is where
the revuelto de chorizo was invented, at least
in the present, delicious form as it is served in several
other offshoots of the bar (again, see Tapas Viapol and
El Rincón de la Buhaira). But don't forget the rest
of the menu: jabalí (boar) in a tasty fruit
sauce (was it raspberry?) or the carrillada, or
the flamenquin, or...the list goes on and on...
Bar
La Manchega |
:
c/ Diamante and Avda de Doctor Fedriani. :
: Typical Andalusian
Do you want to be the only foreigner in a chaotic neighborhood
bar far from the center where they don’t have table
service? YES! You do want to be! Rid yourself of your frightened guiri (foreigner/tourist) instincts and head out
past the Macarena and past the Hospital Virgen de la Macarena.
You're in what used to "the sticks" for Sevilla,
but what is now plenty of 70’s style apartment buildings.
On a corner you will find La Manchega and a bit of happiness
in locating a wonderful, typical Andalusian menu. I do highly
recommend the solomillo a la plancha. Tender, roasted
over real wood coals which pop and crackle as the meat slowly
cooks. I have no idea how it comes out so tender. Then try
a media racion of patatas bravas, covered
with a large amount of garlic mayo and salsa brava (think spicy ketchup, but better). You’ll have to
listen for the bartenders as they scream out your dish,
not your name. Note that they take the day off on Saturday
- it's closed, but they open on Sunday.
- patatas bravas (potatos with garlic, mayonaise
and spicy red sauce)
- solomillo a la plancha (grilled pork loin)
Between the Plaza Magdalena in the shopping district leading
to Plaza de Armas bus station. Borders the river and Arenal.
El Burladero / Taberna La Tasca|
:
c/ Canalejas, 1. : 954 222 900
: Andalusian
Just next door to the Hotel Tryp Colón is a restaurant
known for its delicious meat dishes and a following of well
dressed bullfighting aficionados. Inside you'll find the
bar, Taberna La Tasca, which serves many delicious tapas
that don't carry the full cost of the dinner or lunch menu
en El Burladero. El Burladero is proof that (some) hotel
restaurants can offer the best tapas in the city.
Taberna
El Berrocal|
:
c/ Moratin, 6. : 954 228 990
: Andalusian / Creative
Down a back alley from the El Corte Inglés in the
Plaza Magdalena is this new place, or at least new to me.
There are really two locations, one just across the street
from the other. Plenty of tapas served up in little cazuelas which are wonderful. You can also get your fill of wild
game with things like jabalí (wild boar)
and ciervo (deer, or if you prefer another name,
venison). The caldereta de ciervo (deer stew) is
one of my favorites, plus my friend Karen had me quickly
addicted to the bolitas de patata y queso, a fried
ball of mashed potato served in a cheese sauce. Also take
time out to sample some of the fish dish, like the merluza (hake). The key to ordering in this place is looking at
the seasonal menu and picking what's fresh.
- croquetas (croquettes)
- bolitas de patata y queso (fried potato
croquettes in cheeses sauce)
- caldereta de ciervo (deer stew)
Las
Piletas |
:
c/ Marques de Paradas, 28. : 954 220 404. : Restaurante
Las Piletas
: Andalusian
Just next door to Nu Yor, a nightclub with great mojitos, you'll find La Piletas, a restaurant famous for it's bullfighting
atmosphere as well as tapas and plates of traditional Andalusian
cuisine. Whether you're looking for a bull's head on the
wall or a collection of capes and posters, you won't have
to look far once you enter. The food is moderately priced
and we tried both the jamón and puntillitas (little fried squid) at the bar which were quite good,
especially with a cold Cruzcampo on a hot June night. The
large bar area has a good amount of space for stepping in
and having a tapa or two. The list of about 50 tapas to
choose from may mean you need to bring a dictionary.
Across the Triana Bridge and the area to the right and
left, and heading back on calle San Jacinto. Many consider
most of calle Betis to be Triana. It borders Los Remedios. Contrary to what Rick Steves, travel expert, may have to
say, I do not recommend calle Betis for the best tapas in
Seville. Yes, there is a good view, and yes Triana has some
of the best tapas in Seville, but you won't find them on
calle Betis!
Casa
Cuesta |
:
c/ Castilla, 1. :
954 229 718. : casacuesta.net
: Andalusian.
Set on a street corner in Triana, just a few blocks from
the bridge, Casa Cuesta has a history of over 100 years
(founded in 1880). While a little newer, the shelves behind
the bar are a work of art and certainly an antique worth
looking over. A large informal are of tables in the front
bar area are complimented with a more formal dining room
in the back. A large list of tapas is always on the menu,
with (often) daily specials. A new location on calle Zaragoza
brings Casa Cuesta to the center of the city. Still, I am
partial to the original, and more historic location in Triana.
El
Faro de Triana |
:
c/ San Jacinto – Plaza del Altozano. : 954 336 192
: Andalusian
If only for the view it is worth trying at least a tapa
just across the river in Triana. With four levels to choose
from – both indoor and outdoor – you get a great
view of the river, the Triana bridge and the rest of the
center of Sevilla. The food is decent enough, although you
will pay less in other places for the same quality. Keep
in mind if you sit on the top level (outdoor terrace) you
can't order tapas. Bring your camera or just your sunglasses:
remember you are here to enjoy the view!
Sol y Sombra |
: c/ Castilla 151. : 954 333 935. : tabernasolysombra.com
: Typical Andalusian
Now occupying three storefronts, or locales, Sol
y Sombra's atmosphere is pure toros y feria, as
it's name would suggest. No matter which of the three adjacent
locations you try, you will be surrounded by bullfighting
posters and/or decoration reminiscent of the Feria de
Abril. With a list of tapas and raciones so long it
would take an entire month to try them all, we enjoyed the solomillo al ajo (pork loin cooked with garlic),
which is one of the bars many specialties. The Sol y Sombra
we visited has an historic atmosphere, as we stepped down
into a bar which wrapped around from the entrance to the
back. (One way to measure the age of a bar is if you have
to step down when you enter: the further the step, the older
the bar!). The building has been around since the 1860's
while the bar is a bit younger, dating back to the 1960's.
Other specialties include solomillo al ajo (pork
loin cooked with garlic), a variety of revueltos (omelets) as well as samplings of chacina.
Las Golondrinas |
: c/ Antillano Campos, 26. :
954 331 626
: Typical Andalusian
With the name Las Golondrinas (sharing the name of the development
where my in-laws live), plus a vintage Cruzcampo sign out
front, we just had to try this little bar a few blocks from
all of the ceramics stores in Triana. An area for tapas
downstairs, plus a small dining room upstairs. We arrived
late when things were shutting down, but were offered the
one table near the bar downstairs. The croquetas,
small beef steak and grilled squid all proved to be quite
tasty before we were rushed out the door for closing time.
Lesson learned: don't show up at 4pm as we did, and this
place has some great tapas.
La Oliva |
: c/ San Jacinto 73. :
954 333 031
: Typical Andalusian
Just found this place thanks to Granada. Everything we tried
(listed below) was great, and everything else that came
out of the kitchen made me even hungrier. It may be a hike
from the center, but well worth it. Choose from two dining
rooms, a few tables outside or a place at the bar. There
is a lot of seating but it fills up quickly in what is almost
100% locals. Tapas from 1,50 - 2,50€. This is a place
with a very typical Andalusian menu.
- croquetas de jamón (ham croquettes)
- pavia de bacalao (salty loin of cod, fried)
- solomillo con bacon (pork loin, bacon and a
fried green pepper as a sandwich)
- cola de langosta (lobster tail, although fake,
with cocktail sauce)
- chipirones a la plancha (grilled squid)
- serranito (pork loin, ham, and fried green
pepper as a sandwich)
Crossing over Avda Menéndez y Pelayo from Puerta
Carmona. La Buhaira is the area between around the three
parallel streets: calle de Enramadilla, Eduardo Dato and
Luis Montoto, crossed with the Avda de la Buhaira. It borders
Viapol and the Porvenir and Nervión neighborhoods.
Nervión is past La Buhaira, bordering the Santa Justa
neighborhood (around the train station). Nervión
is mainly the area around the large mall and the Sevilla
F.C. stadium.
Meson
del Asador Sinai|
:
c/Sinai 19. :
954 576 350
: Andalusian
A great place for a Sunday lunch, just make it here early
to get a table. Meat is certainly the specialty, with your
choice of pork, beef or lamb. If you are here for tapas,
then the bar at the front has more than enough space to
get something quick. If you sit down in the back dining
room you must order larger dishes (no tapas!).
Lizarran |
:
Avda. Eduardo Dato 69. :
954 530 958. : lizarran.com
: Nothern Spanish
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? And wasn't this
listed above for el centro? Well, it is a chain
restaurant, and also an interesting way to enjoy tapas.
Make your way inside, get a seat at the bar or a table and
grab a plate. Then help yourself, literally, to anything
you want to eat. There are a number of cold tapas along
the bar as the hot ones come out of the kitchen. Waiters
bring the hot ones around to everyone. Everything is on
a slice of bread with a toothpick. When your done they count
the toothpicks - the flat ones cost less than the round
ones - and give you your bill. As for the tapas there are
many varieties to choose from: sausages, chicken, seafood,
ham, chorizo, vegetables...even a spring roll. Basically
if they can fit it on a piece of bread they will serve it
up!
El Rincón
de la Buhaira |
: c/ José de la Cámara
3. :
954 534 740
:
Andalusian / Creative
Another place to get to early rather than later, especially
on a weekend night, if you want to get a space at the bar
for tapas. El Rincón de la Buhaira is located in
La Buhaira of course, a neighborhood on your way out to
Nervión, on a parallel street to Luis Montoto. This
bar was founded by a former waiter of Bar El Yebra, a famous
place among locals for tapas in the Macarena. Try the revuelto
con chorizo famous here and at El Yebra.
Cerveceria La Reina |
: Avda. de la Buhaira 8. :
954 415 836
:
Andalusian
We've enjoyed a few visits recently with family and found
this a good place for lunch. A wide variety of seafood,
plus several daily specials. Best of all the service has
been very good. We have always sat outside where there are
a number of tables. Afterwards you can stroll in the Jardines
de la Buhaira, the gardens just a minute away.
Taberna Tabalá |
: c/ Juan de la Sierra. :
954 530 703
:
Huelva
Just around the corner from El Rincón de la Buhaira
we recently discovered this "tavern". We were
pleasantly surprised with a long list of chacina, or
cured meats. Plus plenty of other meat-based treats and
tapas hailing from the region around Aracena. This area
in the hills close to Portugal is famous for jamón among other things. We especially enjoyed the presa
mechada, which is a spice or two away from corned-beef,
even if it's made from pork. Served with manteca blanca,
a white butter-like substance made from 100% pork fat, this
could be the last dish you ever eat if you have a cholesterol
problem: they may be rushing you off to the hospital afterwards!
The homemade croquetas were also excellent. If
you crave a good selection of cured meats, this is a great
place to go.
- presa mechada con manteca blanca (cooked pork
with a side of 100% lard!)
- croquetas caseras (homemade croquettes)
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