I love Seville. I always called it Sevilla until I started this page, so forgive me if I go back and forth with the spelling. After visiting several times and telling everyone I know for 10 years I wanted to live in Sevilla I finally decided to do it. I sold most everything I had, packed up what I could and came here with all my savings. If you want to see what everyday life is like in the city (or at least my everyday life), check out the daily entries section below.
The Cathedral from the Patio de Banderas
I began to research Seville tourism and travel information on the web. I found some good sites but none that mentioned the bars and restaurants I frequented nor the hotels and hostals where most people I know stay. And while these pages offered tourist information about attractions, sites and culture in Seville (certainly helpful) they often didn't offer travel advice or insight into how things really work or the cultural differences you should expect.
This is where I think you'll find my site helpful. Along with some basic travel information and recommendations I've tried my best to offer advice about the differences in daily life you'll encounter and the obstacles or issues you may face during your stay in Seville. I hope this helps you spend your time discovering what Seville has to offer and worrying less about making all the little decisions. I hope you'll have a great vacation, study experience or extended stay.
El Arenal - located between the Cathedral and the river.
If you want to try a sampling of beers from around the world or are just missing a beer from back home head here where you'll have a choice from over 300 beers. Choose from the display of bottles along the wall or their menu which lists nation of origin, alcohol content, size and price. Speaking of price it can get pricey drinking here.
Looking for the brew pub experience? Sevilla's only true micro-brewery can be found in the Plaza de Armas, located in the (fairly) new and renovated Córdoba train station which is now serves as a mall. A choice of five or so beers as well as some good tapas bring in a mixed crowd, although it's not the cheapest place around. A good place to start the evening.
One of the biggest discos around is Boss, located across the river from the center on Calle Betis. With 3 bars and a very large, stadium type dance area it's a favorite of many for the late night scene. Dress well and go in small groups to get in, but as with many discos be prepared to be truned away at the door. You'll find plenty of Spaniards as well as internationals.
Offering a wide range of tapas as well as copas this bar offers a bit more space than some of the others. You can find some good food in the early hours but later in the evening the place is set up for drinking. Music varies but they play more rock and spanish pop than anything else. Being a bar de copas the beverages of choice are mixed drinks, but note that beer is a little pricey here at 2€ a pop.
If chupitos, or shots, are what you're looking for this is the place to go. A definite "hole in the wall" bar with a list of over 50 different shots is opposite the bar, some named for celebrities ("Harrison Ford", "Kim Bassinger" - the names show the bar opened in the mid-80's) while others are a bit more clever, like "Pipi de Burro", "Orgasmo", "Moco", "Cerebrito". Each shot costs about 1,20€. The walls were papered in old comic books, and retro '80s tunes were playing all night when we were there. This has since changed since a recent redecorating effort and more modern music. The shot menu is still there but much smaller and hard to read. Liked the retro bit before, but still a good place for cheap shots and copas.
Located down a side street from the Alfalfa it's often not open until after 12pm, the bar is dimly lit with what I'd call an eclectic atmosphere. While many call this a gay bar it is generally a good mix. A painted wall mural with nudes - male and female - are featured on the left when you walk in. The bar is towards the back, with a companion bar behind a gate at the front which is open when things are very busy. When you need to use the bathroom just make sure you know if you're a tigre or a vaca.
A smaller disco located just down the street from Plaza Alfalfa, La Catedral offers copas and dancing until late at night.
Recent, extensive renovations including much needed air conditioning and the third paint job in the last 4 months have transformed the bar from a dive into more of a hip atmosphere. Unfotunately the last color they chose was grey. Paint aside they offer live music 4-5 times per week, with mostly local acts but some out of towners as well. Clientele includes local musicians and actors as well as your everyday folks. A decent DJ plays tunes when nobody is performing with a mix of Spanish and other rock, none of the pop/disco type music you'll hear on Calle Betis.
Located next door to El Perro Andaluz and owned by a former local musician it gets some overflow from El Perro Andaluz, but it's typically a different crowd. A never used stage with a large mural/back drop of a singer, a faux dinosaur skeleton and other strange "artifacts" behind the bar are part of the atmosphere. Smoky and dark, it's a mellow crowd for a late night copa.
Famous from it's mention in almost every guide book about Sevilla, it's still worth a trip. Free music, often Flamenco, can be found in the back covered Terraza, popular in the summer. The front bar with a more rustic, winter pub atmosphere includes a piano, stone walls and floors, fireplaces and wooden tables and chairs. A mix of people, from pijo to earthy, spanish to every nationality under the sun, with plenty of Americans if here for only a day or two. Aside from it's reputation as tourits bar, when there's a live act and I've got a friend in town they always come away liking the place.
Just down a side street from the Cathedral, Antiguedades is a good stopping place with a mix of old and young. Likely a good place for Haloween considering the morbid stuff hanging from the ceiling: bodies, faces and other creepy stuff. Large bar allows you to find a corner to order a copa and head into the street with the rest of the crowd.
Lone Star Saloon (aka: Tex-Mex Bar)
Get your fill of American atmosphere the minute you walk in the door, which is within site of the Giralda. Walls are covered with college banners, assorted stuff from Texas and military memorabilia. Owned by a director of a study abroad program in Sevilla it's more of a place for beer, sports and American/Tex-Mex bar food. If there's a game on somewhere it's likely to be here. Weekly NFL games, the Superbowl, NCAA Basketball championship, NBA games and playoffs as well as every Sevilla or Betis away game. You can also catch episodes of Friends, the Oscars and other events, just check the chalkboard in the street. Front bar area has a pool table and 4 televisions. Back dining area offers more seating with another 4 screens. Free popcorn often comes with your drink (Bud on tap if you wish to drink it) and the burgers are pretty good.
The action never stops in the biggest tourist bar and Irish pub in Sevilla. Located a few meters from the Cathedral you'll never enter without hearing English as well as a few other languages. Outdoor seating, a few bars and a back dining room give you plenty of choices. Very large screen TV used for European soccer games only - no other sports! A favorite of many visitors and despised by some locals go late at night to get your fill of raucous crowds, shots and heavy drinking. During the day a favorite place for displaced tourists looking for pub food. Flaherty's is a chain, with a few other locations in the larger cities of Spain.
Another Irish bar, although this one is likely less authentic than Flaherty's. Nice bar on the smaller side, it's a place for cheap copas, as they still advertise the 3€ mixed drink. Another location to catch a Spanish soccer league game or simply join the action close to the cathedral and Antiguedades.
Place close to Michelle's ( name?)
My question: is this place ever open? I've heard from the neighbors that they do open, but in my time here I've seen the doors half-open one time. Offering Guiness is about the only thing I can tell they do. If they open one day when I walk by I'll learn more. I'd just say don't bother unless you get a call from someone actually inside the bar when they're serviing drinks.
Located in the Plaza de Cuba just across the bridge to Los Remedios there's an authentic Irish feel to the inside of the pub. Large amount of outdoor seating you can choose from a decent selection of the beer on tap or in bottles. Also a good place for a coffee. Prices can be a little steep.
O'Neill's Irish Pub
It's a cerveceria located in Santa Catalina which specializes in one thing: cold beer! And this is the definition of one ugly hole in the wall bar. While they bartenders may push what they like to call tapas, there's nothing hot or cooked offered. Mojama, a salty dried fish, is the closest thing to a tapa. Otherwise your choices are chips and nuts, and did I mention the cold, cold beer? With larger glasses and prices under a 1€, El Tremendo is a common place for a beer after work or to get the evening started. Stand outside (no chairs) with the rest of the crowd where tables are set up along the corner of the street. Next door is another bar which takes advantage of the spillover - the two kind of blend together.
dayphoto - Curro mascto
Over 10 years ago and this little fellow lives on. I still spot Curro, the official mascot of Expo '92, in a few places - as part of a childrens ride outside a supermarket, on a few bumper stickers and in the Plaza del Cabildo on Sundays where people collect pins. I won't pretend to know the details of his origin - I still don't know what Curro is exactly, but I think some kind of animal. A bird perhaps?
La Marcha by barrio
Another place you're likely to find some nightlife is the section next to the Cathedral and leading up Calle Argote de Molina. You can start at Flaherty's Irish Pub for a true international experience and to mingle with people from all over the world. Drink specials, student nights and all kinds of beer on tap and a number of bars make Flaherty's a popular watering hole for travelers. Just up from Flaherty's on c/Argote de Molina you'll run into a lively little scene in La Subasta as well as Antiguedades, which is filled with interesting art, including macabre masks and dolls hanging from the walls and ceilings, making it a good stop for Halloween. Just up the street you'll find L'Image, an Irish bar that isn't and Irish bar but offers 3€ mixed drinks and is often filled on the weekends. On a side street, Calle Placentines, enjoy Tex Mex food, Budweiser and plenty of televisions to take in an NFL game or soccer match. They offer specials such as 10€ all you can drink Cruzcampo (beer) two nights a week, plus the Oscars, Friends and other programs in English, catering to the American crowd. If you head towards the Puerta del Carne and then make a left ask around for La Carboneria, one of the most famous bars in Sevilla for it's nightlife, flamenco and local artists. Literally where you used to buy coal to keep those stoves going back in the days, it's now a great place for summer or winter nightlife where you can take your choice of bars in the rustic looking front or the larger patio in the back.
to Plaza de Armas
Between the Cathedral, Plaza Nueva and the shopping district towards the river is Arenal, Reyes Catolicos and the Plaza de Armas. You'll find lots of action starting on Calle Zaragoza behind Plaza Nueva with El Bestiario, a bar de copas and discoteca. Just down Zaragoza heading towards the Cathedral is Cerveceria Internacional offering some 300 beers from around the world. Between Calle Zaragoza and the Plaza de Toros check out Calle Pastor y Landero where you'll find a Scottish pub called The Clan as well as plenty of other bars down the street. Wander around Arenala little and you're bound to encounter some nightlife. Crossing over Reyes Catolicos, the main drag that leads to the Triana bridge you'll find Marques de Paradas and some fun places like Bauhaus, which offers copas and a DJ. Across the street is Nu Yor, a nice place where you can sip mojitos and other exotic drinks while listening to live Cuban music every weekend. They also have flamenco nights and a VIP room upstairs. Somewhere around here you'll find Guadi, a disco in a Gaudi inspired tiled interior. Just down the street to your right is Merchant's Malt House, a two story English pub with some different beer at the two bars and some cozy couches upstairs. In the Plaza de Armas Centro de Comercio (Mall) you'll find La Fabrica, Sevilla's only brew pub.
If there's one place that's always going, even on a Monday night, it's the Alfalfa are on a street called Pérez Galdós. Here you will find a number of bars catering to nightowls offering everything from shots, to beer and some exotic mixed drinks. Sopa de Ganso (mixed drinks and music), La Rebotica (cheap shots, shots and more shots), Berlin (mixed drinks, brick interior and often rock music playing), Cabo Loco bar (some interesting and exotic mixed drinks) are just a few. At the end of Pérez Galdós you'll find c/Ortiz de Zuniga and Bar El Cubanito as well as the Mini-Bar. A few blocks from Pérez Galdós is c/Siete Revueltos where you'll find El Mundo with a front and back bar offering a darker and more alternative atmosphere. Heading in the opposite direction of Pérez Galdós in Plaza Alfalfa you'll find a few other hotspots. In the Plaza de Jesus de la Pasion and Calle Cuesta del Rosario look for Bar Cuesta which offers mixed drinks and has a DJ. Just next door is Catedral, a smaller disco if you want to dance a little. Down Cuesta del Rosario you'll find Plaza Salvador with two bars that cater to the beer drinking crowd earlier in the evening. La Antigua Bodeguita was just renovated and gives you two bars in one - take your choice for where you want to order. Next door is another bar similar in style. Both offer up tapas, some of the best olives around and of course cold beer. These are also popular spots on weekend afternoons where the crowds spill out into the plaza.
From Calle Amor de Dios to the plaza itself the Alameda is probably the heart of Sevilla's alternative scene, however don't let that fool you as you'll find a good mix of people from pijo to earthy. From places with live music to copas and cheap beer you'll find alittle of everything. There's also always a lively scene in the dirt plaza itself, including people enjoying the botellon scene to the occassional live band on warmer nights. Alameda is also the center of the gay scene in Sevilla. While there are a few bars for men only, many of what they call "gay bars" in Sevilla really offer a mix of people and everyone is welcome. Fun Club is a great place to take in a live show and has a lively alternative scene, while La Habanilla is know for it's crowd of local artists and performers. Naima offers you plenty of jazz to soak in. Like Calle Betis once you get there you'll have no trouble finding a bar where there's something going on.
My favorite stomping ground offers some great nightlife options. Although not technically Santa Catalina, I'll start with Cafe Lisboa, where you can take in anything from a solo folk act to a night of blues or rock by a local band. Making your way down to Iglesia Santa Catalina you may find the best place to start your evening out at El Tremendo, a hole in the wall cerveceria where you can order some of the best, coldest, and cheapest beer in town. People spill out into the streets at tables (no chairs) with their beer and munch on peanuts, mojama, and chips while catching a glimpse of Curro, the neighborhood dog who is there every day. Next door there's another cerveceria that gets part of the action, as well as an Irish pub offering some different beers. Just around the corner in Plaza de los Terceros you'll find El Rinconcillo, Sevilla's oldest bar and a place you must stop by when visiting. They offer cheap beer and good tapas in a great atmosphere that will take you back at least a hundred years. Dosn Calle Gerona is "bbbbb" a cultural association that's also a bar where young artists display their art upstairs in 4 salons which change each month. Downstairs there is a bar and small dance floor where electronica is often the music of choice. Down from Plaza de los Terceros are two bares de copas - El Perro Andaluz where you can catch live music on almost any night, and La Cara B, a mellow joint for a mized drink owned by a former local musician.
Maybe the most famous scene, especially during the summer. But don't let that keep you from making a trip in the colder months when the bars are quite lively as well. Start at one end and make your way down to the other to experience everything you can. At bars like Lo Nuestro you can take in a little flamenco, while at Fundicion get your fill of Americans and other foreigners, sometimes mingling with Spaniards. Alambique is often packed for copas, while Boss is the discoteca of choice on this side of the water. A few places offer Agua de Sevilla, which is quite a drink (served in pitchers) if you're up for four kinds of liquor, champagne, pineapple juice and whipped cream. There's almost a bar every 20 feet, so keep making your way down the street until you've had your fill. There is always some weekend action just a few blocks from Calle Betis, including Burbujas, which offers champagne drinks served in little pitchers (see how far you can get the pitcher from your mouth while still drinking), La Taberna with great improvised flamenco shows and some teterias where you can sip mint tea in a middle-eastern atmosphere. Pub Madigan's in the Plaza de Cuba is also a popular Irish pub.
Florida to La Buhaira
Getting a little further out of the center there's some great nightlife heading out to Nervión. Leaving the Puerta Carmona and heading out Luis Montoto on the first block you'll find a little "metal bar" with a Carlsberg beer sign out front, the perfect place to dress in black and mix with the crowd which spills out onto the street. Just around the corner on La Florida is Metropol, part discoteca part bar de copas which stays open very late - expect bouncers at the door "screening" clientele. Heading further down Luis Montoto a few more blocks and you'll run into Bar Jota, another famous small cerveceria where the beer is cold and the people spill into the streets. Behind Bar Jota on paralell streets are a number of late-night discotecas including Luisiana, Garufa and El Sitio, where there's always a line after midnight. In the plaza next to Luisiana there's also a lively botellon scene - one of the older crowds enjoying a botellon that I've seen.
In the summer time you'll see most of the action move to the river and other outdoor bars or terrazas. In the winter these places are mostly dormant. Babilonia is Goa's summer bar located in Los Remedios on the other side of the Feria grounds. Lines are long and be prepared to be turned away. Once inside enjoy a Moroccan atmosphere complete with bartenders dressed in white, hookas, couches, a dance floor under some palms and a lot of people looking to hook-up for the evening.
Si quieres ambiente selecto, ve hacia las terracitas de "Delicias": "Chile", "Alfonso" y "Bilindo". Chicos y chicas guapas, dificil acceso (sobre todo esta última).
Si te gusta la musica en español, "Latino", una terraza sin portero. Sí, has escuchado bien. Entras hasta descalzo. Y el ambiente es perfecto.
Viapol during the day is a business and commercial center. At night the bars open up, making it a popular spot for nightlife. If you're in the mood for a little Irish atmosphere O'Neill's Irish Pub is a good place to start. A large church organ stands as the centerpiece downstairs. Wall Street is another place freuqented by the university crowd, and offers a student fiesta de intercambio, or Exchange Party as they like to say on Thursday nights starting at 11pm. Here international and Spanish students can mingle while enjoying drinks and music. Marbella, serving tapas and more during the day, is also part of the regular nightlife in Viapol. At night the bar opens up where you can order a copa and of course, dance. Or check out Sunflower below for a lively atmosphere. Voulez-Bar is another great place in Viapol to get together for a drink with friends and at times catch some live music.
c/ José Recuerda Rubio Ed. Viapol 954 65 10 11
Cuando cae la noche, los cafés y tapitas se esconden y aparecen la buena música y los vasos largos. ¿Se carga el ambiente? Sin problema: te sales a la terraza.
c/ José Recuerda Rubio Ed. Viapol 954 65 10 11
En los bajos del Marbella se encuentra este colorido y luminoso local. Gran ambiente aunque eso le puede hacer algo agobiante en algún momento.
(Alameda - c/Calatrava 2)
(Triana - Virgen de Fatima 9)
Internet access, scanning, CD burning, chat and webcam. You can also buy calling cards
(Macarena - c/San Luis)
Small outfit with internet access close to the church.
(Centro - Arenal - c/Almirantazgo)
Just across from the Cathedral off of Avda. Constitución offering internet access, fax and calling cards.
access in a Souvenir Shop
(Centro - Centro - c/Avenida de la Constitución)
A souvenir shop with internet access on the first floor.
(Macarena - c/San Hermenegildo)
A bar with internet access.
(Triana - c/Evangelista)
New internet cafe opening up.
(Macarena - c/Bécquer)
internet access and more
(Torneo - c/Torneo, 35)
Food, drink plus internet access, printing, scanning and phones for calling home. They also help with computer problems.
(Triana - c/Trabajo)
Internet access in a locutorio, of course with calling cards and phones.
(Centro - Santa Catalina - c/Jose Carrión Mejias)
A few older computers in another hole in the wall locutorio where you can also make phone calls and buy calling cards.
(Centro - Santa Catalina - - c/Jose Carrión Mejias)
If online gaming is your thing come here for game tournaments and more. Internet access for those just wishing to surf or send an email is also available. Located right next to an instituto, or highschool, it's a younger crowd.
Festival de la Inmaculada Concepción
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and nightlife hotspots
Knowing where to go and when is half the battle when you're looking for a bit of nightlife in Sevilla. Of course most any night there is something going on, but the best nights for a lot of action are Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
Next to the cathedral is Flaherty's, and Irish pub where you can always find tourists and expats on most any night. Just up the street from Flaherty's is Calle Argote de Molina where you'll find a small group of bars with a good amount of people: Antiguedades, La Subasta and L'image.
Plaza de Armas
Starting behind the Plaza Nueva on Calle Zaragoza with Bestiario and down the street there's Cerveceria Internacional on Calle Gamazo. Most of the action lies behind the Plaza de Toros on Calle Pastor y Landero where there are a number of bars to choose from. Make your way across the main avenue of Reyes Catolicos towards Plaza de Armas and you'll find some late night spots including Gaudi and Nu Yor among others. Finally within Plaza de Armas mall there's the Fabrica de Cerveza, Sevilla's only micro-brewery.
Best on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night but always some action on any evening, this is the biggest strip of bars for late night action. Cross the Triana bridge and got to the left where you'll find
Galería Haurie, c/Guzmán
el Bueno, 9
Dates: October 6 - November 8
The one thing you likely know, or should know, is that it gets really, really hot in the summer. I mean it's damn hot in the summer in Sevilla, especially in August. Sevilla holds the record for the hottest city in all of Europe with a record of 50° C (122° F). That was back in 1888, but I do believe they tied or broke that in August of 2003, when the temperature in the street rose to 52° C, or 126° F! On those days the streets were literally empty during the middle of the day. If you wanted to go out you did so beofre 10am and then not until maybe 11pm at night. Friends of mine with little food in the house preferred to stay inside and be hungry rather than brave the heat.
In the winter the temperature will almost never break the freezing mark and so things are relatively mild. There are many houses which do not have heat and with marble floors being common it can seem much colder. So it's not likely you'll need that heavy winter coat, but layers do help and slippers are a must.
Rain is uncommon if non-existent in the summer months of July and August. In 2003 we went almost 4 months without any significant rainfall. In October the rainy season begins and lasts through December. In March it picks up a little and then starts a downward trend. And while I know it differs from my chart below, I swear October is often the poorest month for rain in Sevilla. If your looking for snow head to the Sierra Nevadas outside of Granada, as the last time it snowed in Sevilla is at least 50 years ago. I saw a picture from that year somewhere with snow in the Plaza de la Encarnación.
Cable Operators (and more channels)
Mobile Phone Service
I frequent many here in Sevilla hoping to find a few hidden in back alleys. There are a few restaurants and bars listed here that you'll find in guidebooks - they are quite good after all - but many you won't.
Here you will find several reviews of restaurants and bars in Sevilla. This list will continue to grow.
tel: 954 21 49 71
Sunday and holidays 9:30am-5pm
tel: 954 50 23 23
Price: 1€ (Tuesday Free)
Saturday, Sunday Holidays 11am-2pm
Wednesday - Saturday 9am-8pm??
Sundays and Holidays 9am-2pm
Wednesday - Saturday 9am-8pm
Sundays and Holidays 9am-2pm
de la Caridad
Monday-Saturday 9am-1:30pm, 3:30-7:30pm
Sundays and Holidays 9am-1pm
de Bellas Artes
Sunday and Holidays 9am-2pm
de Toros de la Real Maestranza (Museo)
de los Pilatos
Price: 5€ lower floor, 8€ complete tour
Sundays and Holidays 10am-4pm
Tuesday-Saturday 10am-2pm, 6pm-8pm