Tapas Bars & Restaurants in Seville

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Tapas bars in Seville

Restaurants in Seville

Interneational and Vegetarian Dining in Seville.

I hope you will find the new and updates sections more to your liking!

El Centro can mean a lot of things to people, but I refer to it here as around the main shopping district, close to calles Sierpes and Tetuan and Plaza del Duque. It borders the Alfalfa, Santa Cruz, Arenal and Alameda neighborhoods.

Bar Santa Marta (aka: Los Azahares) |
: Plaza San Andrés. :
: Andalusian
My question is – does this place hold the world’s record for the largest flamenquin? I think they might, at least for one regularly served in a bar. What is a flamenquin? It’s pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese that is deep fried. This one is at least a foot long. Other recommended dishes include solomillo whisky, arroz (on Saturdays and Sundays), and the frito variado. The plaza de San Andrés is one of my favorite outdoor spots to sit and eat – very large with plenty of people passing by, and a church as the backdrop.

Cafe Bar La Universal |
: Plaza Salvador. :
: Andalusian, innovative
Right off of Plaza Salvador it's a popular spot which is often packed. They have some not so typical tapas and foods to choose from and outdoor seating is the best - inside they somehow always have the heat on. One waiter in particular is known for his never-ending sense of humor - you'll know when you get him.

• fideitos de Cádiz
• tortilla de verduras

Lizarran |
: Javier Lasso de la Vega, 14. : 954 909 199
: Northern Spain
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? Well, it's a run chain restaurant and an interesting way to enjoy tapas. Make your way inside and get a seat at the bar or a table and grab a plate. Then help yourself, literally, to anything you want to eat. There are a number of cold tapas along the bar as the hot ones come out of the kitchen. Waiters bring the hot ones around to everyone. Everything is on a slice of bread with a toothpick. When your done they count the toothpicks - the flat ones cost less than the round ones - and give you your bill. As for the tapas they are good and there are tons to choose from: sausages, chicken, seafood, ham, chorizo, vegetables...even a spring roll. Basically if they can fit it on a piece of bread they will serve it up!

Blanco Cerillo |
: c/ Jose de Velilla. :
: Andalusian
They have some other tapas as well, but why bother when they have perfected boquerones en adobo. If I had to pick one food for the rest of my life it would be this. Bar is very small and outdoor seating may be a few minutes wait to find on a nice day. Same (and the only) waiter, Emilio, has been there for over 10 years. I make sure I go almost once a week. Boquerones are 1,45€ for a tapa or 4,80€ for media ración.

• boquerones en adobo con mayonesa (fried little fish marinated in vinegar, garlic and spices)
• pavia (ok, had to add one more - this is loin of merluza, or hake, lightly fried)

La Flor de mi Viña |
: c/ Jose de Velilla). :
: Andalusian
Just try and find this place. If you do you're in luck - I recommend ordering a plato - 3-3,80€ - for the best value. Frequented by a lot of people who work in El Corte Inglés or other nearby businesses. I think there are 6 or 7 brothers that work behind the bar, all sharing a family resemblance. Very attentive and nice folks. This was dubbed bar barato by my sister and brother-in-law a while back. This is good standard Andalusian cooking at very good prices.

• solomillo whisky (pork in brandy and garlic sauce)
• choco a la riojana (squid)
• arroz (rice)
• albondigas (meatballs - not the italian kind)
• pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken)
• urta con tomate (fish)

Bodegon Alfonso XII |
: c/ Alfonso XII 33. : 954 211 251
: Andalusian
Near the Museum of Bellas Artes. They have a very large menu and a good amount of indoor seating as well as an English menu. Bartenders are nice fellows. If you like garlic order patatas a la brava - just about the best around. And they always have arroz (rice) - every day.

• patatas a la brava (potatoes with garlic mayo and hot sauce)
• arroz (rice)
• flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
• chipiron a la plancha (grilled squid)
• solomillo al whisky (pork in brandy or whisky and garlic)

Bodeguita del Salvador |
: Plaza Salvador 6. : 954 561 833
: Andalusian
More of a place to drink a beer on Saturday or Sunday afternoon in Plaza Salvador. People crowd into the bar to get a drink and then make their way outside into the plaza or on the steps of the church. Some days it can be difficult to make your way to the bar, but few other bars have tables in the same plaza. More recently you'll find some kind of live music outside.

• cerveza!
• jamón (ham)
• aceitunas (olives)
• queso (cheese)
• montaditos (sandwiches - various)

La Alacena de San Eloy |
: c/ San Eloy 31. : 954 215 580
: Wine bar
Maybe one of the best selections of wine for a tapas bar in all of Seville! Opened in early 2005, this is the original orange interior and perhaps a worse than the location on Calle Aguilas. With either location it is recommended to forget the color and take a seat. There is an excellent selection of wines, and if you prefer a smoke-free atmosphere take a seat in the wine cellar itself! Well, it's really just a glass-enclosed, climate controlled room with a few tables. This place is often packed so the seating wanders around to some interesting locations behind the bar. Some very good and original tapas to go with the wine itself. Some of the tapas even come with their own wine which must be sipped to bring out the true flavor of the food! If you are closer to the Alfalfa try the location on Calle Aguilas (see just below).

The Alfalfa is the area just above (on a map) Plaza Salvador leading up to calle Aguilas and ending around Plaza Encarnación. It borders the shopping district, Santa Cruz, Santa Catalina and Puerta Carmona.

La Alacena de San Eloy |
: c/ Aguilas. :
: Wine bar
Maybe one of the best selections of wine for a tapas bar in all of Seville! Opened in August 2005, the orange interior is something to ignore as you step into an atmosphere which is distinctly pijo sevillano. But this is what one might expect with a classification as a "wine bar". There is a large selection and very good tapas to go with it. Some of the tapas even come with their own wine which must be sipped to bring out the true flavor of the food! The first location opened earlier in 2005 on Calle San Eloy.

Bar Europa |
: c/ Siete Revuelta 35 / Plaza del Pan. : 954 221 354
: Andalusian / Basque
A block behind Iglesia Salvador, they always have tables in the Plaza del Pan. Tapas range from traditional to a little experimentation. A little pricey, especially considering some of the portions are very small (I swear my last tapa of solomillo had two pieces, each the size of a two euro coin). But the food is very good - a great place to stop when you're finishing up the day in the shopping district and want a small tapa. But if you come looking to fill up make sure you have enough cash!

• salmorejo (thicker, sweeter gazpacho)
• croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
• espinacas (stewed spinach with garbanzos)
• butifarra (sausage from the north!)

Pizzeros Orsini y Angelo |
: c/ Luchana, 2. : 954 216 164
: Italian
There are now two locations, one in the Alfalfa and another near the Triana Bridge. This was my favorite pizza place, but they have changed the inside and tried to become a little more upscale. Unfortunately Let's Go "discovered" them a few years ago, but it is still worth a trip. The best thing is the pizza but they offer a full range of other typical and not so typical Italian dishes. Prices range from 6-8€ per plato.

• Pizza Roma
• Pizza 5 quesos
• Moussaka

El Refugio | -
: c/ Huelva. :
: Argentinean
All good things come to an end, and while we hoped they were just renovating the place it looks like it changed ownership. Gone are the carañacas and with it their secret recipe and the collection of key chains hanging on the wall (I never got to add mine!). The new place is decent and they offer some vegetarian dishes along with grilled meats. They also serve up quesadillas the way you may think of them back home - not in a cazuela but between two pieces of flour tortilla. Try the parillada for a mixed grill of two types of sausage, two kinds of beef and chicken.

Bar Alfalfa | -
: Plaza Alfalfa. :
: International / Italian
Spanish take on Italian food? One of the owners is Italian and while they offer a few general spanish tapas they also offer plenty tapas with more Italian flavor. This is a small corner bar with a nice atmosphere, but it get's crowded easily and table space is often hard to come by.

• pan de la casa (like bruschetta, if I'm spelling that right)
• provolone... (it's fried provolone in a cazuela)
• mozzarella de bufalo (buffalo mozzarella)
• surtido de quesos (cheese plate)

Coloniales | -
: Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19. :
: Andalusian
Inside and outside seating but if you want to eat outside get there early and put your name on the chalk board outside. Some days you may wait 30 minutes, but you can always eat at the bar or the dining room in the back. Tapas range from 1,75-3,50€ but they are HUGE, which makes eating here very cheap. These folks may be the gods of sauces - try solomillo in maybe seven different ways. I have yet to eat anything here I don't like and have often thought of giving up cooking at home. I likely would if the wait weren't so long.

• solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
• solomillo al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
• solomillo a la castellana (pork loin with garlic, serrano ham and mushrooms)
• champiñones rebozados (fried mushrooms stuffed with ham and chorizo)
• tostadas/pan de la casa (various)
• pollo con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond sauce)
• manjar blanco (chicken in sauce)
• calamares del campo (fried green pepper and onion - not squid)
• prueba de chorizo (cooked chorizo)

Café Bar Habanita |
: c/ Golfo, 3. : 954 219 516
: Cuban / Vegetarian / International
This comes up in the vegetarian section for it’s selection of veggie and vegan friendly dishes. But there’s also meat! Cuban favorites like ropa vieja and a host of original drinks are a good reason to dine here. It is located down an alley in a small “plaza” away from the noise of the Alfalfa. Several tables are outside, in plain view of a very hungry dog who is often salivating over the tapas from his first floor apartment. Inside you'll find a decent sized dining room. A well-translated menu (color coded for English and Spanish) and some experienced English speakers who work the tables make this friendly for travelers. And I challenge you to sit for lunch without seeing at least one group of tourists.

• alcachofas (artichokes served with balsamic vinegar and olive oil)
• reveulto de setas (scrambled eggs with mushrooms)
• solomillo con datiles y bacon (pork loin cooked with dates and bacon)
• croquetas de roquefort (roquefort croquettes)
• mojito (rum, brown sugar and more in what is perhaps the city's best mojito)

La Mia Tana |
: c/ Perez Galdos, 24. : 954 226 897
: Italian, Mexican
This is the best pizza place in Sevilla, as the line out the door will tell you. My guess is many are enticed by the smell which fills up the street every day and night, making you crave something Italian. It's best to get here early as the restaurant itself offers maybe 10 tables. Pizzas are my favorite, but the calzones and salads are excellent, as well as a variety of pasta dishes. Plenty of vegetarian options to choose from as well. If you do make it late and manage to get a table slow down and enjoy your meal. When you step outside la marcha, or nightlife will be in high gear on almost any night with 15 or more bars to choose from.

Bar Manolo |
: Plaza Alfalfa. :
: Typical Andalusian
One of my favorites as it was the first place I tried anything en adobo. Located in the Alfalfa with a good amount of outdoor seating, although tables can be hard to come by on a nice night. Tapas, media raciones and raciones are all generous in size, and very reasonable priced: 1,30-2€. This is a favorite for locals and the menu is about as straight Andalusian as you can get. I think of it like a Sevillian soul food restaurant. No pretty presentation, just large portions of home-cooked food. The serranito, a sandwich of pork loin, ham, green tomatoes and a fried green pepper, is one of the best in the city. How they get the whole thing on the bread and keep it so tender, well that's one of life's little mysteries.

• gambas rebozadas (fried shrimp)
• pavia de merluza (fried hake - fish - loin)
• solomillo al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
• gazpacho
• gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp in shells)
• serranito (sandwich: pork loin, ham, green tomatoes and a fried green pepper)

Bar Kiko |
: c/ Herbolarios, 17. :
: Typical Andalusian
Mom and pop bar with great tapas. Two dining rooms - one I like to call the "fire trap" as it is located behind the kitchen with no other exit. The other is a bit larger and located next door. A few tables are outside as well. If you eat one thing here make it the lagrimitas de pollo. This is another place in the Alfalfa where the menu is very typical Andalusian food. Tapas range from 1,50-2,25€. And don't be fooled by the Sevilla and Betis football team crests hanging behind the bar. They're trying to accommodate everyone, but they are all sevillistas! Still, one can make an exception to sample some home-cooked food.

• lagrimitas de pollo (chicken marinated in vinegar - "adobo-like")
• croquetas (croquettes)
• san jacobo (ham and cheese deep-fried)
• pisto (stew)

Arenal is the neighborhood between the Cathedral and the river, beginning at Avda. Constitución and ending at the river and the bridges leading to Triana and Los Remedios. It borders the Plaza de Armas/San Pablo neighborhood.

La Isla |
: c/ Arfe 25. : 954 215 376
: Andalusian
Perhaps one of the best places to try any kind of seafood, on several occasions we have spotted the members of Real Betis eating in La Isla. While this will cost you more than your average restaurant in Seville the quality of the seafood is the best in the city, brought in from the coast everyday!

Taberna Alabardero | -
: c/ Zaragoza, 20. : 954 502 721
: Spanish / Innovative / New Cuisine (expensive unless you try the menu at lunch)
I'll let you in on a little secret. Well it's likely not much of a secret anymore, but you'll enjoy this place if you're looking for a nice dinner at a reasonable price. Eat downstairs at El Alabardero for a full three course meal for 12 € and I guarantee you won't have a better meal in Spain for that price. This is no bar food or tapas, although I don't have anything against the two. El Alabardero is the school of hosteleria so you get some young waiters who are practicing their skills but at a high level. The menu changes most every day and you might consider the food as being from the new school of Spanish cooking - they're not afraid to use some interesting or exotic ingredients in preparing the dishes. The presentation of the food is also something to be seen. It's upscale at a very reasonable price. Note on some holidays and other events the menu price may be higher.

Sierra Mayor |
: c/ Joachin Guichot 5. : 954 561 210
: Andalusian / Extremaduran
A great place to go for a variety of famous jamón and cured meats. Ham, chorizo, caña de lomo...you name it: if it's cured pig it's here. The fuentes give you a chance to try a little bit of everything although it can be a little expensive. Tapas range from 1,80-3,00€. During the holidays they hang little pig ornaments with a Santa hat on them: the front shows the typical smiling pig. The back-side appropriately shows his butt.

• fuente de sierra mayor (a little of everything in the cured meat department)
• fuente de queso (many cheeses)
• croquetas de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
• tostada o pan de la casa (various breads/toast with choice of toppings)

Meson de la Infanta |
: c/ Dos de Mayo, 26. : 954 561 554
: Andalusian
Just about everything here is good, but especially the cured meats such as the mouthwatering jamón. More of an upscale eatery if you choose the restaurant but a good place for tapas. Just down the street from the Teatro Maestranza, they offer a typical spanish menu, a large bar and an historic atmosphere. When coming from the Cathedral look for the ceramic tile with the Infanta.

La Moneda |
: c/ Almirantazgo 4. : 954 223 642
: Andalusian
Not far from the cathedral and post office as you enter the Arenal. More expensive and tapas are smaller but very good. Expect a more upscale crowd here - I saw some local actors come in who were treated like royalty as we were passed over, but not for long. The service tends to be pretty good.

• garbanzos con bacalao (fish and garbanzo stew)
• langostinos con bacon (shrimp wrapped in bacon)
• pez espada empanado (fried swordfish)

Casablanca |
: c/ Zaragoza 50. : 954 224 698
: Andalusian / Innovative
While there isn’t much space, the bar is known for it’s tapas and crowds. Get here a little early and then be prepared to eat your tapas in a small, or shall we call it "intimate", atmosphere. Recommended by my family members, many guide books and people sending me emails. This is a fine example of a good, and perhaps a little expensive, restaurant where you can save some money by sampling the menu at the bar (choosing tapas).

El Rincón del Pulpo Gallego |
: c/ Harinas 21. : 954 224 311
: Galician / Asturian
Great Galician bar. Don't be fooled by other ones in Seville as this is the only place to go (especially not the one close to Plaza del Duque, where they served me up a nice piece of metal with my tapa, told me "these things happen" and then charged me for it after I spent 10 minutes in the bathroom dislodging the piece of metal from my throat). Ok, so that happened SOMEWHERE ELSE. You won't find that at El Rincón Gallego. Instead drink the sidra here - an alcoholic cider typical of Asturias but also served in Galicia. My favorites here are chorizo criollo and mejillones al vapor. Tapas range in price from 1,50-2,50€. Look for the purple octopus on the sign outside and you're there.

• empanada de atún (tuna empanada - accept no other)
• pulpo gallego (octopus served with boiled potatoes)
• mejillones al vapor (steamed mussels)
• berberechos al vapor (steamed clams, or similar to clams)
• bacalao a la gallega (fish with a few veggies)
• chorizo criollo (homemade sausage served with sauce)
• sidra (cider)

Bodeguita Romero |
: c/ Harinas 10. : 954 229 556
: Andalusian
Another place which is worth a stop just for their specialty – a montadito de pringa, a mixture of very tender roasted pork mixed with a small amount of the ever so tasty tocino (hog fat) and morcilla (blood sausage). Sounds scarier than it really is. And once you take a bite you simply won't care what's in it. Other tapas are on the menu and good, but nothing beats the specialty of the house.

• montadito de pringa (pork sandwich)

Casa de Extremadura |
: c/ Fernandez y Gonzalez 14. : 954 225 606
: Extremaduran
Think of it as a bar/restaurant/cultural center, although the front looks just like a bar. The back is a socios (members) area complete with a TV, tourist information for Extremadura and a home like atmosphere. The front is a nice place for a meal or the menu del día, which we tried for a little under 7 Euros. Excellent food from the region where we enjoyed cocido - a stew complete with garbanzos, some vegetables, morcilla (blood sausage), pork and tocino (fat!). A very good meal for a reasonable price.

On the opposite side of the Cathedral as Arenal, the area behind the Alcazar and Cathedral bordering Menéndez Pelayo and the Jardines Murrillo. It borders the Alfalfa neighborhood and Puerta Carmona.

San Marco |
: c/Meson del Moro 6. : 954 564 390
: Italian
Great Italian food, and don't believe the other Seville web sites or guide books which say 48€ for two. You can skip that 20€ bottle of wine and eat plenty for around 25-30€. Eat at the Meson del Moro location for the best atmosphere - set in what was formerly a 12th century Arab bath. There are several other locations, including Calle Betis (Triana) and Calle Cuna (Centro). While they offer pizza I'd recommend eating any of the other dishes first. And the salad with roquefort, endive and fresh corn is wonderful. There are several other locations, which all have a unique atmosphere. Most are in renovated 18th or 19th century houses and include period decoration. I recently strolled by the c/ Baños location and it has a nice cozy feel. It's just off a side street from Plaza de la Gavidia in the center. A little secret - if you want the same menu but for a better price check out Restaurante Cereceto on c/ Pérez Galdós. They are a San Marco franchise which offers more or less the same food but in a more casual atmosphere.

El Modesto |
: c/ Cano y Cueto 5. : 954 416 811
: Andalusian
One word for everything: delicious. Located near the Jardines de Murillo with plenty of space at the bar and a lot of outdoor seating. A more formal dining room is located upstairs, but you can eat tapas at the bar for a reasonable price. For what you get it's really not that expensive. I think the coquinas, or little clams, are likely the best in Sevilla. We also had gambas al ajillo, shrimp cooked with olive oil, garlic and hot peppers. Don't be afraid to make barquitos when you order this - that is throw in little bits of bread to soak up the sauce. A frito variado is always a good choice, when you get 4-5 types of fish including calamares del campo, which despite their name are not fish, rather fried onions and green peppers. Finally solomillo al whisky is excellent here, and it's my weakness when we dine out.

• frito variado (sampler of fried fish)
• fritura el modesto (fried onions, green peppers and shrimp)
• solomillo whisky (pork loin cooked in brandy or whisky)
• coquinas (little clams)
  

Casa Roman |
: c/ Jamerdana / Plaza de los Venerables, 1. : 954 228 483
: Andalusian
If you are looking for a little more upscale, but not too upscale, this is a great bar in the heart of Santa Cruz located just next to the Hospital de los Venerables. Another place where the jamón comes highly recommended, by both my family and the stranger next to me at the bar who thought I was a lost foreigner having a hard time reading the menu. A number of outside tables are available with a nice view of the plaza and other diners. There’s just something about the atmosphere – decoration and feel – which makes it a great place to be.

Corral del Agua |
: Callejón del Agua, 6 : 954 220 714
: Andalusian / Romantic
If you are looking for a romantic setting and don’t mind forking over a little money the Coral del Agua helps set the mood. In the middle of Santa Cruz right next to the old city wall, the restaurant is in an 18th century building the most charming section of Sevilla. Dining options include a candlelit table in a plant and flower filled patio. Service is excellent and the food very good.

Bar la Estrella |
: c/ Estrella 3. : 954 561 426
: Andalusian, innovative
What isn't good here I don't know. It is tucked away in a back street near the Alfalfa and offers 5-6 tables for outside dining. Inside there's a bar area with a few tables as well as a separate dining room. There is also a very long list of tapas. Offering traditional spanish food they also mix it up with a few more exotic dishes and tapas. Tapas range from 1.80-4€, this is a great place and a favorite for locals.

• langostinos con aguacate (A half of an avocado stuffed with large prawns and covered with sauce)
• camembert frito - (fried camembert with a sweet sauce on the side)

Las Columnas (Bodega Santa Cruz) |
: c/ Rodrigo Caro / corner of c/Mateos Gago. :
: Typical Andalusian
Close to the Cathedral with a sign that reads Bodega Santa Cruz. Don't believe it - everyone here calls it Las Columnas. There are a few tables inside and outside but in general very little seating. People tend to crowd around the bar to order tapas while the bartenders keep your running tab on the bar in grease pencil. Most of the bartenders have been here forever and are accustomed to helping you with your order, even if it means simply pointing to the chalk board. Always a mix of lost looking tourists and locals. Tapas are between 1,40-2,00€, and if you tip you may see them throw it through the Chicago Bulls nerf hoop and into the pot. Damn, they renovated and the nerf hoop is gone. I have dreams about the ensaladilla at night...

• ensaladilla (potato salad with tuna, crab, peas, carrots)
• flamenquin (pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
• pinchito de cerdo (brochette of seasoned pork)
• montaditos (grilled sandwiches - various)
• gazpacho
• pollo frito (fried morsels of chicken)
  
  

Santa Catalina is the area around the Iglesia Santa Catalina, bordering around Plaza Encarnación, the Alfalfa, Puerta Carmona and Puerta Osario. To the back bordering calle Feria, the Alameda and Macarena neighborhoods.

Restaurante Jano |
: c/ Doña Maria Coronel 17. : 954 214 804
: Andalusian / New Cuisine
Our first experience dining in this restaurant was pure heaven. The chef comes from the School of Hostelry (the famous Taberna del Alabardero), and his skills certainly showed. Very creative dishes, excellently prepared and presented. The small touches such as a melon coolie with bits of ham between courses, and the after dinner chupito (shot) of orujo sealed the deal for us. The head waiter/owner is also a professor of English, which helps if you need a little help with the menu (also available in English). This is a smaller restaurant, perhaps 10 tables, but it fits well a philosophy of detailed, personalized service. I could easily recommend this as one of Seville's best restaurants - and it's only 30 seconds from our house!

La Giganta |
: Plaza de los Terceros - c/ Alhóndiga, 6. : 954 210 975
: Andalusian / New Cuisine
Another Santa Catalina favorite – I love my neighborhood because just about every bar here serves good food! Some original recipes including wild mushrooms, chicken in a variety of sauces, the ever popular solomillo (again with a choice of sauces) and specials just about every day. Also known for the house toasts (tostadas de la casa), which doesn't translate into English well. They are known for their sauces! When the weather is nice they have seating outside next to Iglesia Santa Catalina. When it's cold but dry they use the outdoor heaters so you can still eat outside!

El Colmao |
: Plaza Ponce de Leon, 5. :
: Central Spanish
This place often gets overlooked in Santa Catalina and Plaza de los Terceros. It should not be missed if you like wine and cheese (I know, you Carolina basketball fans may have to overlook this one or swallow your pride). They have a number of wines, be it of the day or of the week, always changing their selection. They also have a very good cheese plate and a seemingly endless menu including tapas, platos para compartir (plates to share), media raciones and raciones. The media ración of ham is a great deal – 5 Euros for what could pass as a ración. And the ham is good, not the cheap stuff. Thankfully the outside tables are now autoservicio (no waiters). A good choice and it makes it cheaper than the 15% service charge they used to have..

La Huerta |
: Plaza de los Terceros. :
: Andalusian / International / Vegetarian
Very new and just down the street from my apartment with lots of outdoor seating and very friendly owners. It is currently undergoing renovations which should finish soon. They offer some nice alternatives to the normal tapas you find here. A lot of vegetarian friendly dishes. The tabla de patatas comes with three amazing sauces. El secreto (shhh..don't tell) is huge. Tapas range from 1,50-2,80€.

• tabla de patatas con 3 salsas (roast potatoes with 3 dipping sauces)
• tabla de verduras (grilled vegetable kebob)
• quiche de puerros (leak quiche)
• croquetas (choose from cheese, cauliflower, shrimp)
• secreto (pork steak)
• berenjenas con miel (eggplant with honey)

El Rincóncillo |
: c/ Gerona 40 / Plaza de los Terceros. : 954 223 183
: Typical Andalusian
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670. The current owners are on their 8th generation dating back to 1800 or so. You can never enter without seeing a tourist but it has a great atmosphere, including a collection of (still full) bottles of liquor some as old as 70 years. They say representatives from the liquor companies come in every so often to try and buy some of the older bottles - but they're not parting with them. A new dining room upstairs in the old employee quarters has turned this into a good full blown restaurant. Despite the fame the food is cheap - tapas range in price from 1,50-2,50€. Some of the cheapest beer in town as well at 0,85€ a pop.

• jamón (ham)
• espinacas (cooked spinach)
• pavia de bacalao (fried loin of cod)
• bacalao con tomate (fish with tomato)
• caldereta (meat stew)
• queso (cured manchego cheese)
• caña de lomo (cured pork)

Ajo Blanco |
: c/ Alhóndiga 19. : 954 229 320
: International / Mexican / Vegetarian
A little alternative in atmosphere, with plenty of Jazz and a few Feria posters hanging on the walls. Music varies from rock to light jazz. Small number of tables and some space at the bar to eat. Some dishes have an interesting Mexican twist to them, all offered with a great hot sauce on the side - you'll be warned la salsa pica! Prices range from 1.80-4€ per tapa.

• enchiladas (well, they're enchiladas - try the chicken which is curry flavored)
• tejano con carne picada y frijoles (ground beef or pork plus beans served in a crunchy corn tortilla)
• tarta vegetal con queso azul (vegetable "cake" with blue cheese)
• ensalada de cous cous (cous cous salad)
• ajo blanco (white gazpacho made with almonds)

Rayas |
: c/ Almirante Apodaca 1. : 954 221 746
: Dessert
Ice cream only, but probably the best on earth. Take your pick from maybe 30 - they are all good. 2,50€ for a small and a little more for a medium cup. Exotic flavors whose names I can't pronounce nor write, as well as some good, simple favorites like chocolate, vanilla, and banana! This place is famous and anyone who knows anything about ice cream in Sevilla knows the name Rayas.

Puerta Carmona is the area around the intersection of calle Luis Montoto, Avda. Menéndez y Pelayo and calle San Esteban. It borders Santa Cruz, the Alfalfa and Santa Catalina. Crossing the main avenue of Menéndez y Pelayo you reach La Buhaira and Nervión neighborhoods.

Bodega La Extremeña |
: c/ San Esteban 17. : 954 417 060
: Extremadura
Real wood fired grill right behind the bar, although it is currently awaiting renovations so you'll have to live with an electric grill for now. The place for grilled or a la plancha meats. You can even order a pigs face (pestorejo)...mmm...pigs face. The bar area is certainly rustic and makes you think your in some little town in Extremadura. They have a larger, more formal dining room next door where you can't order tapas, but only media raciones or more. If you make a reservation check out the dining area and get the table tucked away in the little room - it looks like a great place for a nice meal. Tapa prices in the bar range from 1,75-5€.

• chorizo al infierno (hot chorizo cooked in liquor at your table)
• surtido de queso (sampler of cheeses)
• surtido de chacina (sampler of cured meats)
• surtido de carne (sampler of grilled meats)
• costillas de cerdo (pork ribs)
• presa iberica (pork loin)
• pluma iberica (pork loin)
• migas (something like stuffing)

Further away on Avda. Menéndez Pelayo from Puerta Carmona and Santa Cruz, Puerta Osario borders the Santa Justa, Macarena and Santa Catalina neighborhoods.

Café Bar Eme |
: c/ Osario. :
: Typical Andalusian
Another place with what you’d call a typical Andalusian kitchen, serving up a large and recommended coctail de mariscos (crab, fish and shrimp served on a bed of lettuce covered with red - Spanish style - cocktail sauce). This is the sweeter variety, not the spicy kind from the U.S. that some of you may be used to. This is another place which comes recommended from a very reliable source (family) but I’ve yet to try.

• coctail de mariscos (see above description)
• montaditos (assorted little sandwiches)

Rincón del Tito |
: c/ Escuelas Pias. :
: Typical Andalusian
If there were a Bar Manolo II I would give the honor to this place. The menu is about the same, portions a little smaller, but at a very good price. Plenty of outdoor seating along the busy Calle Escuelas Pias.

The Alameda neighborhood is named for the large open, dirt plaza. It runs along calle Feria and the Macarena neighborhood leading to the river and the Puente de la Barqueta.

La Madraza |
: c/ Peris Mencheta 21. : 954 908 188
: Andalusian / Innovative / Vegetarian
Just off of calle Feria towards the Alameda is a restaurant Markus of sevilla5.com showed me a few years ago. If you want to get a seat get there early so you can avoid the wait, and this place is best for dinner. Original recipes made from fresh ingredients make this a good choice. Large tapas make dinner the best value. I wish I could remember what I ate here, but I can't. A shame because it's one of the better places to eat in the city. As I was recently informed by a reader and should have mentioned after many attempts - get here early! Try 9:30, or better even earlier if you want to get a table. Still, it's worth the wait!

La Ilustre Victima |
: c/ - Doctor Letamendi 35. : 954 389 490
: International / /Moroccan / Mexican
Middle eastern specialties plus original Andalusian dishes in what turns into an alternative bar de copas later at night. A large menu of teas to choose from plus some good Mexican food and a real beef hamburger. Their baklava, or what are called pasteles arabes, are small but delicious. They also offer cous cous, shoarmas and some other tasty dishes.

Café-Bar "El Ambigú" |
: c/ Feria 47. : 954 381 015
: Andalusian / Innovative
Located on Calle Feria they have a few outside tables but offer more tables inside. Especially keep an eye on their daily offerings listed on the chalkboard, which I've found not only delicious but generous in size. Was full from two tapas plus two beers here for about 5,50€. If you go a little more standard the menu del día offers a drink, your choice of dishes for 1st and 2nd plates (two courses) and then dessert for around 6,50€. You come away very full. I had an amazing piece of roast chicken (large and delicious) and a great salad off the menu del día one day.

• pollo a la cerveza (when available)
• chorizo asturiano a la sidra (when available)
• merluza

Bar Alcoy 10 |
: c/ Alcoy 10. : 954 905 702
: Andalusian / Innovative / International
Thanks to my parents for giving us this tip. Alcoy 10 is located a few blocks from the San Lorenzo church on the corner of calle Alcoy and Teodosio. Seating includes a small area at the bar for tapas, plus a few tables on the terrace and a small dining room (no tapas in the dining room). The chalkboard lists the daily options, with at least 1 or 2 new offerings each day. The food is a mix of a few traditional dishes plus some innovative recipes from a French chef. Presentation and preparation of the food is excellent, often with an emphasis on contrasts for may dishes, such as sweet to cancel out the salty, or cold with hot. Our solomillo al gorgonzola, was served on a bed of fresh fettuccini, which was a nice change.

• solomillo al gorgonzola (pork loin with gorgonzola served over pasta)
• queso de cabra gratinado (baked goat cheese on bread)
• foie de pato sobre pan caliente (duck paté served over toasted bread)
• solomillo al jerez (pork loin in a sweet sherry sauce)

Restaurante / Bar Eslava |
: c/ Eslava, 3 - 5. : 954 906 568
: Andalusian / Innovative
Just nest to the San Lorenzo church (located across from the church bell tower) you'll find one of Seville's most popular tapas bars. There is also a small dining room next door, thus the two numbers on the address above! Known for it's tasty recipes, the bar is often crowded, so get here early. Lunch can be a good time to make a visit, again a little early, to try the menu del día.

The Macarena neighborhood borders the Alameda and Santa Catalina leading to the Macarena church and the Andalusian Parliament. Behind the Parliament building leading to the Puente del Alamillo is considered the Macarena neighborhood by many as well, although most of it was built in the 1950's or later.

Bar Yebra | -
: Calle Medalla Milagrosa, 3. : 954 351 007
: Andalusian / Innovative
Here is where it all began. Before El Rincón de la Buhaira and Tapas Viapol this was, and still is, the place to eat in the Macarena if not all of Sevilla. This is where the revuelto de chorizo was invented, at least in the present, delicious form as it is served in several other offshoots of the bar (again, see Tapas Viapol and El Rincón de la Buhaira). But don't forget the rest of the menu: jalabí (boar) in a tasty fruit sauce (was it raspberry?) or the carrillada, or the flamenquin, or...the list goes on and on...

Bar La Manchega |
: c/ Diamante and Avda de Doctor Fedriani. :
: Typical Andalusian
Do you want to be the only foreigner in a chaotic neighborhood bar far from the center where they don’t have table service? YES! You do want to be! Rid yourself of your frightened guiri (foreigner/tourist) instincts and head out past the Macarena and past the Hospital Virgen de la Macarena. You're in what used to the sticks for Sevilla but what is now plenty of 70’s style apartment buildings. On a corner you will find La Manchega and a bit of happiness in locating a wonderful, typical Andalusian menu. I so highly recommend the solomillo a la plancha. Tender, roasted over real wood coals which pop as the meat slowly cooks. I have no idea how it comes out so tender! Then try a media racion of patatas bravas, covered with a large amount of garlic mayo and salsa brava (think spicy ketchup, but better). You’ll have to listen for the bartenders as they scream out your dish, not your name. Note that they take the day off on Saturday - it's closed, but they open on Sunday!

• patatas bravas (potatos with garlic, mayonaise and spicy red sauce)
• solomillo a la plancha (grilled pork loin)

Between the Plaza Magdalena in the shopping district leading to Plaza de Armas bus station. Borders the river and Arenal.

Restaurante El Burladero |
: c/ Canalejas, 1. : 954 222 900
: Andalusian
Just next door to the Hotel Tryp Colón is a restaurant known for its delicious meat dishes and a following of well dressed bullfighting aficionados. With outdoor seating as well as a bar and restaurant inside, plan to spend a little extra (Euros and time) to soak in the atmosphere. El Burladero is proof that (some) hotel restaurants can offer the best cuisine in the city.

Taberna El Berrocal |
: c/ Moratin, 6. : 954 228 990
: Andalusian / New Cuisine / Innovative
Down a back alley from the El Corte Inglés in the Plaza Magdalena is this new place, or at least new to me. There are really two locations, one just across the street from the other. Plenty of tapas served up in little cazuelas which are wonderful. You can also get your fill of wild game with things like jabalí (wild boar) and ciervo (deer, or if you prefer another name, venison). The caldereta de ciervo (deer stew) is one of my favorites, plus my friend Karen had me quickly addicted to the bolitas de patata y queso, a fried ball of mashed potato filled with cheese and served in a cheese sauce. Also take time out to sample some of the fish dish, like the merluza (hake). The key to ordering in this place is looking at the seasonal menu and picking what's fresh.

• croquetas (croquettes)
• bolitas de patata y queso (fried potato croquettes in cheeses sauce)
• caldereta de ciervo (deer stew)

Las Piletas |
: c/ Marques de Paradas, 28. : 954 220 404
: Andalusian
Just next door to Nu Yor, a nightclub with great mojitos, you'll find La Piletas, a restaurant famous for it's bullfighting atmosphere as well as tapas and plates of traditional Andalusian cuisine. Whether you're looking for a bull's head on the wall or a collection of capes and posters, you won't have to look far once you enter. The food is moderately priced and we tried both the jamón and puntillitas (little fried squid) which were quite good, especially with a cold Cruzcampo on a hot June night.

Across the Triana Bridge and the area to the right and left, and heading back on calle San Jacinto. Many consider most of calle Betis to be Triana. It borders Los Remedios.

El Faro de Triana |
: c/ San Jacinto – Plaza del Altozano. :
: Andalusian
If only for the view it is worth trying at least a tapa just across the river in Triana. With four levels to choose from – both indoor and outdoor – you get a great view of the river, the Triana bridge and the rest of the center of Sevilla. The food is decent enough, although you will pay less in other places for the same quality. Bring your camera or just your sunglasses: remember you are here to enjoy the view!

Azteca (Tex Mex) |
: c/ Salado. :
: Mexican
We went down to calle Salado, which has several international restaurants in a row, plus a few just a block or two away Azteca is new and looks like a chain restaurant but from all I can tell it isn’t. The portions are not large but the food definitely tasty with some really good tacos (warning – 1 taco costs about 3,80 Euros). Still, we made it out after 4 beers and 5 plates for under 30 Euros. The stuffed jalapeno are spicy and each one with a different filling (beans, cheese, chicken and tuna). The chimichangas look more like large soft tacos, the quesadillas still aren’t the kind I get back home (served in a cazuela, not between two tortillas) but the flavor is authentic. Plus they serve about 15 kinds of tequila. We'll ignore the fact they don’t serve Cruzcampo…

Pizzeria Napoletana Cosa Nostra |
: Triana - c/Betis 51. : 954 270 752
: Italian
Offering typical Italian dishes such as pizza, lasagna, plenty of pasta dishes and a few meat and chicken plates. What used to look like the brother of Mama Mia has gone upscale with a recent renovation. Modern look, a little of a pijo crowd and what looks like a better, yet more expensive menu. Why there is a wall sized picture of Edward Norton and Ralph Fiennes in the place we may never know, unless they stopped by before the renovation. Kind of reminds you of a men's clothing store with these pictures. A lot of seating means you shouldn't have a problem finding a table.

Las Golondrinas |
: c/ Antillano Campos, 26. : 954 331 626
: Typical Andalusian
With the name Las Golondrinas (sharing the name of the development where my in-laws live), plus a vintage Cruzcampo sign out front, we just had to try this little bar a few blocks from all of the ceramics stores in Triana. An area for tapas downstairs, plus a small dining room upstairs. We arrived late when things were shutting down, but were offered the one table near the bar downstairs. The croquetas, small beef steak and grilled squid all proved to be quite tasty before we were rushed out the door for closing time. Lesson learned: don't show up at 4pm as we did and this place is great.

La Oliva |
: c/ San Jacinto 73. : 954 333 031
: Typical Andalusian
Just found this place thanks to Granada. Everything we tried (listed below) was great, and everything else that came out of the kitchen made me even hungrier. It may be a hike from the center, but well worth it. Choose from two dining rooms, a few tables outside or a place at the bar. There is a lot of seating but it fills up quickly in what is almost 100% locals. Tapas from 1,50-2,50€. This is a place with a very typical Andalusian menu.

• croquetas de jamón (ham croquettes)
• pavia de bacalao (salty loin of cod, fried)
• solomillo con bacon (pork loin, bacon and a fried green pepper as a sandwich)
• cola de langosta (lobster tail, although fake, with cocktail sauce)
• chipirones a la plancha (grilled squid)
• serranito (pork loin, ham, and fried green pepper as a sandwich)
  

Crossing over Avda Menéndez y Pelayo from Puerta Carmona. La Buhaira is the area between around the three parallel streets: calle de Enramadilla, Eduardo Dato and Luis Montoto, crossed with the Avda de la Buhaira. It borders Viapol and the Porvenir and Nervión neighborhoods. Nervión is past La Buhaira, bordering the Santa Justa neighborhood (around the train station). Nervión is mainly the area around the large mall and the Sevilla F.C. stadium.

Meson del Asador Sinai |
: c/Sinai 19. : 954 576 350
: Andalusian
A great place for a Sunday lunch, just make it here early to get a table. Meat is certainly the specialty here, with your choice of pork, beef or lamb. We ordered thin slices of beef filet which we then cooked ourselves over a small grill with fresh coals, brought to our table. Another one of my favorites is the presa iberica, nice cutlets of high quality pork grilled and served, of course, with potatoes. The desserts are homemade and well worth it if you still have the appetite.

La Casa de las Costillas (CLOSED)
: Nervión Plaza. :
: American
The only real American steak/rib restaurant around. Catch a cab or bus, or go for a long walk from the center as this one is located in Nervión Plaza, unfortunately one of the malls in Seville next to Seville F.C. stadium (blech). Curiously named sandwiches for states and cities in the US whose ingredients have nothing to do with the actual place. Real ribs, hamburgers and steaks just like back home. Western music, antique signs, peanuts at the bar, as well as a collection of old soda bottles complete the theme. It is one "American Restaurant" that's got the whole theme right. Prices range from 6-15€ per plato.

Lizarran |
: Avda. Eduardo Dato 69. : 954 530 958
: Nothern Spanish
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? And wasn't this listed above for el centro? It is a chain restaurant and an interesting way to enjoy tapas. Make your way inside, get a seat at the bar or a table and grab a plate. Then help yourself, literally, to anything you want to eat. There are a number of cold tapas along the bar as the hot ones come out of the kitchen. Waiters bring the hot ones around to everyone. Everything is on a slice of bread with a toothpick. When your done they count the toothpicks - the flat ones cost less than the round ones - and give you your bill. As for the tapas they are good and there are many varieties to choose from: sausages, chicken, seafood, ham, chorizo, vegetables...even a spring roll. Basically if they can fit it on a piece of bread they will serve it up!

El Rincón de la Buhaira |
: c/ José de la Cámara 3. : 954 534 740
: Andalusian / Innovative
Another place to get to early rather than later, especially on a weekend night. El Rincón de la Buhaira is located in La Buhaira of course, a neighborhood on your way out to Nervión, on a parallel street to Luis Montoto. We had a meal so wonderful we left feeling drunk from all of the food, or was that the complimentary shot of liqueur we had on our way out? This bar was founded by a former waiter of Bar El Yebra, a famous place among locals for tapas. Try the reveulto con chorizo famous here and at El Yebra.

Cerveceria La Reina |
: Avda. de la Buhaira 8. : 954 415 836
: Andalusian
We've enjoyed a few visits recently with family and found this a good place for lunch. A wide variety of seafood, plus several daily specials. Best of all the service has been very good. We have always sat outside where there are a number of tables. Afterwards you can stroll in the Jardines de la Buhaira, the gardens just a minute away.

Taberna Tabalá |
: c/ Juan de la Sierra. : 954 530 703
: Huelva
Just around the corner from El Rincón de la Buhaira we recently discovered this "tavern". We were pleasantly surprised with a long list of chacina, or cured meats. Plus plenty of other meat-based treats and tapas hailing from the region around Aracena. This area in the hills close to Portugal is famous for jamón among other things. We especially enjoyed the presa mechada, which is a spice or two away from corned-beef, even if it's made from pork. Served with manteca blanca, a white butter-like substance made from 100% pork fat, this could be the last dish you ever eat if you have a cholesterol problem. As in they may be rushing you off to the hospital afterwards! The homemade croquetas were also excellent. If you crave a good selection of cured meats, this is a great place to go.

• presa mechada con manteca blanca (cooked pork with a side of 100% lard!)
• croquetas caseras (homemade croquettes)