Starting
the night with a cold beer
Cervecerias |
The first four
cervecerias listed below are known for a couple of things:
the coldest beer in town at a cheap price and they are often
crowded on Saturday and Sunday afternoon's, just before
people hit a restaurant or tapas bar to get something to
eat. My favorites are El Tremendo and Bar Jota.
El
Tremendo
(Santa Catalina)
It's a cerveceria located in Santa Catalina which
specializes in one thing: cold beer! And this is the definition
of one ugly hole in the wall bar. But this  is
a famous place in Sevilla. With larger glasses and prices
under a 1€, El Tremendo is a common place for a beer
after work or to get the evening started. While they bartenders
may push what they like to call tapas, there's nothing hot
or cooked offered. Mojama, a salty dried fish,
is the closest thing to a tapa you'll find. Otherwise your
choices are chips and nuts, and did I mention the cold,
cold beer? Stand outside (no chairs) with the rest of the
crowd where tables are set up along the corner of the street.
Bathrooms may be the smallest in all of Sevilla. Next door
is another bar which takes advantage of the spillover -
the two kind of blend together. Keep your eye out for Curro,
the neighborhood dog who spends his days and nights between
El Tremendo and Plaza de los Terceros.
Bar
Jota
(Nervión - Avda. Luis Montoto)
Another place famous in Sevilla for it's beer and pretty
much nothing else. Well, there are a few tapas including
gambas, but it's not what people are here to sample.
Rather it's Cruzcampo served cold and like others in this
category you enter, order up - just say the number of beers
you'd like when it's busy - then head outside with the rest
of the people on the sidewalk. A great place to start for
a beer or two or three as you decide where to go to next.
La
Bodeguita Antigua and Los Soportales
(Centro - Plaza Salvador)
After undergoing renovations with much of the rest of the
plaza and church these two bars are now open, but some of
the atmosphere is lost until the Plaza is back in it's old
form. Both are a great place for a cold beer, plate of olives
and a little jamón. Live music can be found
on some days, vendors selling everything from toys for the
kids to candy and potato chips. People would spill into
the plaza and line the steps of Iglesia Salvador. But for
now, the action is limited to the smaller part of the Plaza
Salvador.
La
Plazoleta
(San Juan de la Palma - Plaza San Juan de la Palma)
A plaza with a few palm trees in the middle and plenty of
space to mingle outside the bar. La Plazoleta is a great
stopping point on the weekends before lunch or for a quick
tapa. Plenty of cold, cheap beer make it a favorite for
locals.
Texas
Lone Star Saloon, aka: Tex-Mex Bar
(Centro - c/ Placentines near the Cathedral)
Ok, it's not a cerveceria in the traditional sense but it
can be a good place to start the evening. Get your fill
of American atmosphere the minute you walk in the door,
which is within site of the Giralda. Walls are covered with
college banners, assorted stuff from Texas and military
memorabilia. Owned by a director of a study abroad program
in Sevilla it's more of a place for beer, sports and American/Tex-Mex
bar food. If there's a game on somewhere it's likely to
be here. Weekly NFL games, the Superbowl, NCAA Basketball
championship, NBA games and playoffs as well as every Sevilla
or Betis away game. You can also catch episodes of Friends
in English, the Oscars and other events, just check the
chalkboard in the street. Front bar area has a pool table
and 4 televisions. Back dining area offers more seating
with another 4 screens. Drink specials during the week and
Friday include all you can drink Cruzcampo for 10 Euros
- put your drinking cap on. Free popcorn often comes with
your drink (Bud on tap if you wish to drink it) and the
burgers are pretty good.
International
Beer
cerveza internacional |
Cervecería
Internaciónal
(Arenal - c/Gamazo)
If you want to try a sampling of beers from around the world
or are just missing a beer from back home head to Cerveceria
Internacionl where you'll have a choice from over 300 beers.
Choose from the display of bottles along the wall or their
menu which lists nation of origin, alcohol content, size
and price. Speaking of price it can get pricey drinking
here. Some beers contain very high alcohol content - check
the menu to see how much you're getting. The higher the
content the worse it gets in my opinion: if you want more
alcohol take a shot and use the beer as the chaser!
La
Fábrica
(Plaza de Armas - Mall)
Looking for the brew pub experience? Sevilla's only true
micro-brewery can be found in the Plaza de Armas, located
in the (fairly) new and renovated Córdoba train station
which is now serves as a mall. A choice of five or so beers
as well as some good tapas bring in a mixed crowd, although
it's not the cheapest place around. I tried their specialty,
bacalao frito y dorado, which is similar to scrambled
eggs with bits of cod served in a cazuela. Sounds
weird, but it's quite good. A good place to start the evening
and a good place to sample something other than Cruzcampo,
which, by the way, is still the best beer on earth...
Cerveceria
Europa
(Nervión - Luis Montoto)
If beer from Europe is your thing then you'll get a good
selection in this bar just across the street from the El
Corte Inglés. Plenty on tap but even more in bottles.
There is a long
list of choices when it comes to a bar de copas,
and much depends on what kind of mood your in. After a beer
or two you may find yourself heading to one of these spots
for some mixed drinks.
Sopa
de Ganso CLOSED
(Alfalfa
- c/Pérez Galdós)
Offering a wide range of tapas as well as copas this bar
offers a bit more space than some of the others on Pérez
Galdós. You can find some good food in the early hours but
later in the evening the place is set up for drinking. Music
varies but they play more rock and spanish pop than anything
else. Being a bar de copas the beverages of choice are mixed
drinks, but note that beer is a little pricey here at 2€
a pop.
La
Rebotica
(Alfalfa - c/Pérez Galdós)
If chupitos, or shots, are what you're looking
for this is the place to go. A definite "hole in the
wall" bar with a list of over 50 different shots is
opposite the bar, some named for celebrities ("Harrison
Ford", "Kim Bassinger" - the names show the
bar opened in the mid-80's) while others are a bit more
clever, like "Pipi de Burro", "Orgasmo",
"Moco", "Cerebrito". Each shot costs
about 1,20€. The walls were papered in old comic books,
and retro '80s tunes were playing all night when we were
there. This has since changed since a recent redecorating
effort and more modern music. The shot menu is still there
but much smaller and hard to read. Liked the retro bit before,
but still a good place for cheap shots and copas.
Cabo
Loco Bar
(Alfalfa - c/Pérez Galdós)
A little island and Native American ambience in
a little bar. An Important part of la marcha near
the Alfalfa, you can try to squeeze in or spill out into
the street like most do on Calle Sopa de Ganso. A wide variety
of shots with a backdrop of Indian "artifacts"
like axes, clothing and more.
El
Mundo
(Alfalfa - c/Siete Revueltos)
Located down a side street from the Alfalfa it's often not
open until after 12pm, the bar is dimly lit with what I'd
call an eclectic atmosphere. While many call this a gay
bar it is generally a good mix. A painted wall mural with
nudes - male and female - are featured on the left when
you walk in. The bar is towards the back, with a companion
bar behind a gate at the front which is open when things
are very busy. When you need to use the bathroom just make
sure you know if you're a tigre or a vaca.
El
Perro Andaluz
(Santa Catalina - c/Bustos Tavera)
Recent, extensive renovations
including much needed air conditioning and the third paint
job in the last 4 months have transformed the bar from a
dive into more of a hip atmosphere. Unfortunately the last
color they chose was gray. Paint aside they offer live music
4-5 times per week, with mostly local acts but some out-of-towners
as well. Clientele includes local musicians and actors as
well as your everyday folks. A decent DJ plays tunes when
nobody is performing with a mix of Spanish and other rock,
none of the pop/disco type music you'll hear on Calle Betis.
La
Cara B
(Santa Catalina - c/Bustos Tavera)
Located next door to El Perro Andaluz and owned
by a former local musician it gets some overflow from El
Perro Andaluz, but it's typically a different crowd. If
you like dives, this place fits the bill. A never used stage
with a large mural/back drop of a singer, a faux dinosaur
skeleton and other strange items behind the bar are part
of the atmosphere. Smoky and dark, it's a mellow crowd for
a late night copa.
La
Carboneria
(Centro - c/Leves 18)
Famous
from it's mention in almost every guide book about Sevilla,
it's still worth a trip. Free music, often Flamenco, can
be found in the back covered Terraza, popular in the summer
and winter. The front bar with a more rustic, winter pub
atmosphere includes a piano, stone walls and floors, fireplaces
and wooden tables and chairs. A mix of people, from pijo
to earthy, spanish to every nationality under the sun, with
plenty of Americans if here for only a day or two. Aside
from it's reputation as tourists bar, when there's a live
act and I've got a friend in town they always come away
liking the place.
Antiguedades
(Centro - c/Argote de Molina)
Just down a side street from the Cathedral, Antiguedades
is a good stopping place with a mix of old and young. Likely
a good place for Halloween considering the morbid stuff
hanging from the ceiling: bodies, faces and other creepy
stuff. Large bar allows you to find a corner to order a
copa and head into the
street with the rest of the crowd.
La
Ilustre Victima
(Alameda - Doctor Letamendi, 35)
Just
down a side street from Calle Feria they offer a wide range
of food, including Moroccan, typical Spanish and samplings
of the Mediterranean. Some outdoor seating with a large
bar inside. Turns into a bar de copas at night
with a lively, mixed group. You may see the occasional artist
or local celebrity hanging around. A few blocks away you
may see some questionable women, if I may puta
it that way. But it's a safe place with a good crowd.
Cafe
Hercules
(Alameda - corner of c/Guadiana and
c/Peris Mencheta)
Ok, I hate the term but perhaps a little boheimian in atmosphere.
You may catch a glimpse of a local actor or two. Tables
outside in the warmer months and nice and cozy inside.
Fundicion
(Triana - c/Betis)
If you're looking for a lot of Americans and other internationals
come here. Drinks, music and pool, and again, a lot of Americans
with a few Spaniards from time to time. Cheap drink specials
during the week make it a stopping point for many enjoying
the river and action of Calle Betis.
When the action
winds down in the bars the discotecas are often still open,
many until 6 or 7am. Drinks are more expensive and the bouncers
often select the clientele at the door.
Boss
(Triana - c/Betis)
One of the biggest discos around is Boss, located across
the river from the center on Calle Betis. With 4 bars located
at various levels and a very large, stadium type dance area
it's a favorite of many for the late night scene. Dress
well and go in small groups to get in, but as with many
discos be prepared to be turned away at the door for whatever
reason. You'll find plenty of young Spaniards as well as
internationals. A fixture in Sevilla and the Calle Betis
scene.
Antique
(Isla de la Cartuja - Expo 92 site)
Many with hopes of spotting a local or national celebrity,
including actors, artists and fútbol players, try
to get into Sevilla's most upscale and swank disco. Located
in the former Olympic Pavilion of Expo '92, it's been completely
renovated and is fit to please the most avid disco-goer.
Be very prepared to be turned away at the door, especially
if you're not dressed for an expensive evening. During the
summer there is a terraza where you can enjoy a
breeze.
Catedral
(Alfalfa - c/Cuesta del Rosario)
A smaller disco located just down the street from Plaza
Alfalfa, Catedral offers copas and dancing until late at
night. A reputation for having the most modern sounds they're
well known for new music from the hippest international
locations, if that's your thing. Smaller than many of the
other discos, there's still enough room to move about.
El
Coto
(Nervión - Luis Montoto)
The look and feel of the 80's, and in a bad way. With an
entrance on the Avenida and one from a hotel you know what
you're getting into, or do you? Select clientele at times
and definitely not for a younger crowd, although I see some
poor, younger souls wander in there from time to time.
Notre
Dame
(Sevilla Este - Avenida Montesierra)
Picture a gothic cathedral and you'll get the atmosphere
of this place. Carefully decorated with a large crucifix
at the entrance to prepare you for the rest of the place.
Dimly lit but bustling with activity in the late hours,
techno and other modern rhythms contrast the gothic ambience.
Being in Sevilla Este it's new and has a younger crowd.
It's also far from the center of the city.
Weekend
House Club
(Centro - Avda Torneo 43)
Another recent addition to the discoteca scene
with a reputation for house music. It's located on the city
center side of the Expo '92. Elaborate decoration and pricey
drinks, but it's known to be the one of the "hippest"
joints in Sevilla. From a center stage cage filled with
go-go dancers to the semi-famous Barbie the Destroyer, the
dancing transvestite there are visits by well-know DJs,
lasers and lights as well as a thumping new sound system
- enough to keep the neighbors up until 7am. A young crowd
with a good mix of hetero and gay patrons. From time to
time they also clear the place for some concerts - from
metal to hip-hop. If you like flash they've got a fun website.
Babilonia
(Los Remedios)
Just
across the river using Puente de las Delicias and located
in what looks like the warehouse district, you'd never imagine
it's tucked away in this place when you first enter the
street. That is until you see the cars parked every which
way. They like to turn people away at the door, so come
well dressed and in coed couple form if possible. We saw
two guys by themselves who were turned down, but then offered
entrance for 30€ apiece, a creative way being open
to everyone but saying "no". If you're liked the
entrance is free of course. Also, if you become a member
you get your private VIP entrance. The atmosphere is hip
meets hippie meets Morocco, with lot's of candles and incense,
rustic wooden chairs and tables all complete with hookahs.
A number of bars to choose to order from with famously handsome
waiters dressed in all-white Moroccan garb. In the back
there's plenty of seating with more candles and incense,
which makes it an attractive place for people watching if
you don't do the disco thing. It's an open air summer place
with a large dance floor under the palms. Music is of the
summer pop variety with some old classics to keep you dancing.
Closed in late fall and winter, but Goa, it's winter counterpart
is open.
Irish,
English & Scottish Pubs
Pubs: irlandes, ingles y escoses |
There's
always room for something a little different - most of these
bars cater to the English speaking crowd, offer your typical
stouts and other brews from the north. You'll always find
a good selection of whisky as well. Many are the best places
to take in a football match or other sporting event, as
well as meet some fellow travelers.
Flaherty's
(Centro - c/Alemanes)
The action never stops in the biggest tourist bar and Irish
pub in Sevilla. Located a few meters from the Cathedral
you'll never enter without hearing English as well as a
few other languages. Outdoor seating, a few bars and a back
dining room give you plenty of choices. Big screen TV used
for European soccer games and rugby only - no American sports!
A favorite of many visitors and despised by some locals
go late at night to get your fill of raucous crowds, shots
and heavy drinking. During the day a favorite place for
displaced tourists looking for pub food. Flaherty's is a
chain, with a few other locations in the larger cities of
Spain.
Merchant's
Malt House 
(Centro - Calle Canalejas, 12)
The atmosphere of an Irish pub without the crowds of tourists
you see in it's Irish counterpart, Flaherty's. Dark red
interior, plenty of wood furnishings with lot's of old advertising
signs for beer and liquor, the standard stuff for these
places. Upstairs offers a second bar with some comfortable
couches and a fireplace. Large screen TV with every Betis
and Sevilla away and home match as well as weekly
Premier League and rugby matches. At least 10 different
bottled beers as well as 3 on tap. Video trivia contests
in English and other activities as well.
Pub
Madigan's
(Los Remedios)
Located in the Plaza de Cuba just across the bridge to Los
Remedios there's an authentic Irish feel to the inside of
the pub. Large amount of outdoor seating you can choose
from a decent selection of the beer on tap or in bottles.
Also a good place for a coffee. Prices can be a little steep.
O'Neill's,
The Irish Pub
(Edificio Viapol)
Very nice place and more or less genuine atmosphere. Three
bars, one at the front, just behind it and an even larger
one downstairs - give you plenty of places to choose from.
A large pipe organ is the center piece of the bar downstairs.
Bad disco music - the 70's stuff - was playing when I was
there, but it was a Wednesday night. Guinness, Heineken,
Murphy's Red are all on tap, as well as a selection of bottled
beers. A small beer on tap, about a half pint, will set
you back 1,80€, though, so I can't recommend the place
by price. But the feel is somewhat authentic and without
the obscene quantity the drunk foreigners that come with
Flaherty's in the center, but still expect plenty of guiris.
The
Trinity
(Centro - Plaza Nueva 7)
This place is kind of pricey as it's part of Hotel Inglaterra.
I've been twice, once on St Patrick's day. And I don't recommend
this as the Irish Pub in which to spend St Patrick's day
if you're looking for an upbeat crowd. Staff was very nice
and we got a green, white and black hat for free thanks
to Guiness. (Good for the Betis games!) But it was expensive
and it's an older crowd - ok if you are or want that. A
nasty drunk sneered at us and made unwelcome comments to
everyone, including the nice guys behind the bar. Maybe
a good place for a quiet drink, when the nasty drunk isn't
there of course.
The
Clan, Scottish Bar
(Arenal - c/Adriano)
The only Scottish bar in Sevilla, as far as I know. This
one serves up a decent selection of beer, inclduing some
drink specials like 2 for 1 Heineken during the week. Televised
events include Premier League and Rugby matches, Spanish
soccer matches and more. Close to plenty of other bars in
Arenal and not a bad place to start things off.
Kennedey's
Irish Pub
(Porvenir - c/ Cardenal Bueno
Monreal)
Another Irish pub! Perhaps the most authentic of the bunch?
Plenty of beers on tap, plenty of Irish and other whisky,
many coffees spiked with your choice of liquor. Add a bunch
of imported antiques direct from Ireland and you have a
pretty good Irish pub. Live music on the weekends and a
large menu of Irish food, of course with a bit of pub fare
such as hamburgers.
Collin's
Irish Pub
(Santa Cruz/Alfalfa)
I hesitate to even list this one, but as many pass by it
and may think it's an option I'll put it down. My question:
is this place ever open? I've heard from their neighbors
that they do open every once in a while, but in my time
here I've seen the doors half-open a total of one time.
Offering Guinness is about the only thing I can tell they
do. I'd just say don't bother unless you get a call from
someone actually inside the bar when they're serving drinks.
Recent update - I saw 3 people there around midnight on
a Saturday. They offer cheap shots, but there doesn't seem
to be much going on here.
La
Taberna Irlandesa
(Santa Catalina - c/San Felipe)
Another one with little claim to the genre of Irish pubs,
but they use the name in Spanish, and in English on the
sign at the beginning of the street. They do offer different
beer and show a soccer match each week, although it is almost
always a Sevilla match, and sometimes a Betis match if you
believe the signs. They have a habit of posting games and
then deciding not to buy them right before start. The fellow
running the place isn't very pleasant either. The food is
Spanish. So if you need a beer from abroad you might come
to this place. Otherwise my recommendation is to search
for an authentic Irish pub someplace else.
Tablaos
Tablaos
are where you'll see the most professional and quality shows.
Artists are can range from the nationally to internationally
known, and the dress and costumes are superb. Many shows
offer dinner or just a drink, and the prices will be the
most expensive for enjoying flamenco. While some people
and guide books comment on these as tourist traps there
is plenty to enjoy - for a price - and some of the best
quality shows take place in tablaos. As I recommend
for most of them, skip the dinner and take the drink only
option.
El
Arenal
(Arenal - c/Rodo, 7)
A tablao that's been around for years, situated in a renovated
17th century building. Choose from a show with dinner or
just a drink (cheaper) in a cozy atmosphere where yu can
get a close view of a show. I saw my first show here some
15 years ago, opening my eyes to mind to the lure of flamenco.
web: tablaoelarenal.com
El
Patio Sevillano
(Centro - Paseo Colon)
Founded in 1952 and moved to it's
current location in 1973, one of the first tablaos in Sevilla.
Flamenco shows take place in a typicaly Andalusian patio
and the building is located right next to the Plaza de Toros
and the river. Another choice of a show with dinner or just
a drink (cheaper option).
web: elpatiodesevilla.com
El
Palacio Andaluz
(Centro - c/Maria Auxiliadora, 18)
Lights, luxury and a big venue. Located
on a large avenue catch a glimpse from an outside to see
one of the most upscale tablaos in Sevilla. Another place
to choose dinner with the show or just a drink.
Las
Brujas
(Puerta de Osario/Nervión - c/Gonzalo Bilbao, 10)
CLOSED
Typical Andalusian dishes or a drink
can be enjoyed while you watch flamenco.
Los
Gallos
(Centro - Santa Cruz - Plaza de Santa Cruz)
Founded in 1966, Los Gallos is in the heart of Santa Cruz
and a few blocks away from the Jardines Murillo, with 2
shows every night. Again recommended to choose the show
with a drink option instead of the dinner.
web: tablaolosgallos.com
Semi
Professional to Amateur
As
I go down the list it gets harder to distinguish the levels
and quality, but here you'll find students or local artists
who are very talented and put on great shows. Prices will
be much less and in some cases free. One of my favorites
is Casa de la Memoria, where you can see an affordable show
in a great little venue.
Cafe
Cantante Sol
(Santa Catalina - c/Sol)
Another place for a semi-professional
show full of talent. Close to Plaza de los Terceros and
El Rinconcillo, Sevilla's oldest bar which makes for a great
starting point before seeing the show.
Casa
de la Memoria
(Santa Cruz - c/Ximénez
de Enciso, 28)
You can see Flamenco on a semi-professional level for 9-11€,
with two shows every night. Students at local schools who
are very talented perform in the 18th century patio, making
it a unique venue for flamenco.
Asociacion
Antigua de Sevilla
(Arenal - c/Castellar,
50)
Gifted amateurs with tickets starting around 3€.
Flamenco
in Bars and other locations
From
the improvised and exciting to only singing or guitar you
can find some great shows with a little neighborhood atmosphere
in these places. Some have regular flamenco nights where
you can catch a local act. While most - but not all - will
lack the professional talent there's plenty of passion in
their performances.
Lo
Nuestro
(Triana - c/Betis)
A fixture on Calle Betis for years it's a great place for
a little flamenco with a group playing just about every
night.
La
Taberna
(Triana - c/Duarte, 3)
A great place for an improvised show just down the street
from Lo Nuestro. Drinks are all you pay, after that sit
back and enjoy the flamenco - normally signing and guitar.
Casa
Anselma
(Triana - c/Pagés del Corro)
One of the best known bars of the
Triana flamenco scene where Sevillanas is common.
Simpecao
(Triana - Paseo de la O - riverwalk)
Take in a little flamenco right on the shore of the river.
Improvised and spontaneous, it's a great place to for flamenco
in Triana.
La
Madrugá
(Triana- c/Salado)
Close to the Plaza de Cuba, live flamenco
weekly.
Sevillanas
(Centro - c/Canalejas, across from
Hotel Colon)
In between Calle San Eloy in the center and Plaza de Armas.
Taberna
Flamenca
(Arenal - c/Adriano)
In the heart of the Arenal nightlife, and close to the Plaza
de Toros.
La
Carboneria
(Santa Cruz - c/Levies 18)
Famous
from it's mention in almost every guide book about Sevilla,
it's still worth a trip. Free music, often Flamenco, can
be found in the back covered Terraza, popular in the summer
and winter. The front bar with a more rustic, winter pub
atmosphere includes a piano, stone walls and floors, fireplaces
and wooden tables and chairs. A mix of people, from pijo
to earthy, spanish to every nationality under the sun, with
plenty of Americans if here for only a day or two. Aside
from it's reputation as a tourist bar, when there's a live
act and I've got a friend in town they always come away
liking the place.
Lola
de los Reyes
(Los Remedios - Avda Blas Infante)
More upscale clientele in Los Remedios.
El
Rejoneo
(Los Remedios - Avda. Blas Infante)
Don't be afraid to get up and dance
here.
El
Tamboril
(Barrio Santa Cruz - Plaza de Santa Cruz)
A bar where you can listen to to alittle
flamenco, watch or join in with locals dancing Sevillanas.
El
Perro Andaluz
(Santa Catalina - c/Bustos Tavera)
Flamenco Thursdays!
Tertulia
Flamenca
(Triana - c/Castilla)
Flamenco Fridays!
El
Mundo
(Alfalfa - c/Siete Revueltos)
Flamenco
Tuesdays!
When
it's time for any kind of championship the questions always
pop up via email or the forums: "Where can I watch
the game?" Many of the Irish pubs have a big screen
television and feature live sports on the weekends. Sometimes
it's just football (think Europe and not American style)
while other times they will show American sports such as
the World Series, Superbowl, NFL weekly games, etc. Some
of the best places to catch the match or game are below,
with some special accommodations or deals set-up for certain
events.
Texas
Lone Star Saloon (Tex Mex Bar)
(Centro - c/Placentines, 25)
One good location for many sporting events is the Texas
Lone Star Saloon, or the Tex Mex Bar as most call it.
Every week they show two live NFL games. They also show
NBA games and a tape-delayed (1 day) broadcast of the NCAA
basketball final on Sportmania. For the NCAA final the place
is packed, but unfortunately this past year Sportmania
decided to show highlights and the final result
of the game right before broadcasting it. For those of us
who avoided the news all day so we could watch it as if
live were quite upset. You can catch any Betis or Sevilla
away matches here on pay-per-view as well, and the crowds
are pretty good. If you like the Premier League or other
European league soccer games they are likely to carry them,
too. These guys do a good job of showing what you want to
see - normally you can pass by outside and check out the
chalkboard where they post what games or events they'll
have that day.
Flaherty's
(Centro - c/Alemanes, 7. Next to the
Cathedral)
One bar, Flaherty's,
will not show the NCAA Final no matter how many Americans
go to their bar. Even though they were open at 2pm the following
day when there was a rebroadcast of the game and there
were no other sporting events they refused to change the
channel (or rather turn on the TV) so some of us could watch
the game. Such nice folks...anyway, if it's soccer from
the Premier League you want to see they do an excellent
job accommodating your needs. Otherwise
I'll just add our experience to my ever growing list of
reasons why not to go to Flaherty's Pub.
Merchant's
Malt House
(Centro - Calle Canalejas, 12)
Another option is Merchant's Malt House on the corner of
Canalejas and Gonzalez Abreu. Large screen TV with every
Betis and Sevilla away and home match as well as
weekly Premier League and rugby matches. At least 10 different
bottled beers as well as 3 on tap. Video trivia contests
in English and other activities as well.
Semana
Santa Bars
Bares
de Semana Santa |
If you're
one of the majority of travelers who doesn't make it here
for Semana Santa you can get a glimpse into the madness
in one of these bars. They have an atmosphere which will
give you a good feel for the festivities in Sevilla. Just
about every bar in Sevilla has at least one picture of a
cristo or virgen somewhere, but these
go one step further.
Bar
Garlochi
(Alfalfa - c/Boteros)
On a parallel street behind the Alfalfa you'll find this
bar which is - by far - the best when it comes to Semana
Santa. You'll think it's a church as you enter the front
door thanks to the virgin awating you at the entrance, and
inside the walls are full of pictures of Cristos and
virgenes. Flowers and candles of course make up
part of the decoration, as well as some other memorabilia
from Semana Santa. Agua de Sevilla is served by
the pitcher. This is Semana Santa sensory overload. And
they are friendly at the bar, even if there is a moron there
from time to time with an "Americans No" sticker
on his shirt. He walked past us several times so we could
see it until I finally pointed out what a nice shirt he
had.
Bar
Rocina
(Alfalfa - c/Boteros)
Bar Garlohci has a neighbor, and while it doesn't have the
same overwhelming "Easter" atmosphere the walls
are dedicated to Semana Santa processions with plenty of
pictures. You'll see a few bufandas of local and
not so local fútbol teams, but other than
that it's the Holy Week.
La
Fresquita
(Santa Cruz - c/Mateos Gago)
It's not uncommon to hear processional music year round
here, and incense is frequently burning. Plenty of pictures
from Semana Santa, fino and cerveza, as well as a few (standing
only) tables outside as the bar is a small one.
El
Rincóncillo
(Plaza de los Terceros - c/ Gerona)
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670. The current owners
are on their 8th generation dating back to 1800 or so. You
can never enter without seeing a tourist but it has a great
atmosphere, including a collection of (still full) bottles
of liquor some as old as 70 years. They say representatives
from the liquor companies come in every so often to try
and buy some of the older bottles - but they're not parting
with them. A new dining room upstairs in the old employee
quarters has turned this into a good full blown restaurant.
Hermanos Emilio
Bodega near UNCAR
Los Claveles
A new favorite watering hole of mine just across the street
from El Rinconcillo. I have yet to eat at the bar but I
know the woman in the kitchen can cook just by looking at
her. Mainly simple tapas to go along with the cold beer.
They have done some renovating, but the same old floor is
there as is the brick wall. The outside of the bar still
sports the old advertisements for fino. The bartenders
are always friendly and attentive. Lots of locals from the
neighborhood.
If you're looking to get away from the alcohol and nightlife
and spend a relaxing evening or afternoon a Tetería
may be the place for you. Many offer the atmosphere
of Spain's neighbor, Morocco, while others have more of
an international feel. Teas, fruit drinks and pastries are
common offerings.
 Dar
El Mehdi Tetería
(Santa Cruz- c/Federico Rubio, 10)
Newest of the bunch, opening in the fall of 2003, with wonderful
decoration. Belly dancing on Friday and Sunday nights.
Tetería
Salam
(Triana - c/Luca de Tena 6, just off
of Pages del Corro)
Tucked away on a side street offering
teasand pastries from the east.
Tetería
Internacional Chef Chaouen
(Triana - c/Peley Correa, 83)
From Morroco to India the decoration is a mix. Teas, pastries
and live music from time to time.
Bagdad
Cafe y Tetería
(Triana - c/Pureza 22)
Just a block behind calle Betis and
close enough to the Triana bridge.
El Duende
(Triana - c/Paraíso in the Corona
Center)
Tetería
Yaomi
(Centro
- c/Federico Rubio, 8-10)
Bellydancing
on Friday nights!
Tetería
Inshallah
(Alameda - c/ Peris Mencheta, 24)
A little bit of everything, with teas,
pastries and mixed drinks. Cultural activities and a book
shop as well.
Shambala
(Alameda - c/Peral)
Offering teas and various batidos
(fruit juices, drinks) as well as tapas.
Tetería
Cafe Bar Platea
(Alameda)
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