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El Centro
can mean a lot of things to people, but I refer to it here
as around the main shopping district, close to calles Sierpes
and Tetuan and Plaza del Duque. It borders the Alfalfa,
Santa Cruz, Arenal and Alameda neighborhoods.
Blanco
Cerillo
(c/ Jose de Velilla)
: Andalusian
: Cheap
They
have some other tapas as well, but why bother when they
have perfected boquerones en adobo.
If I had to pick one food for the rest of my life it would
be this. Bar is very small and outdoor seating may be a
few minutes wait to find on a nice day. Same (and the only)
waiter has been there for over 10 years. I make sure I go
almost once a week. Boquerones are 1,45€
for a tapa or 4,80€ for media ración.
- boquerones
en adobo con mayonesa (fried little fish marinated
in vinegar, garlic and spices)
- pavia
(ok, had to add one more - this is loin of merluza,
lightly fried)
Flor
de mi Viña
(c/ Jose de Velilla)
: Andalusian
: Cheap
Just try and find this place. If you do you're in luck -
I recommend ordering a plato - 3-3,80€ - for the best
value. Frequented by a lot of people who work in El Corte
Inglés or other nearby businesses. I think there
are 6 or 7 brothers that work behind the bar, all sharing
a family resemblance. Very attentive and nice folks. This
was dubbed bar barato by my sister and brother-in-law
a while back.
- solomillo
whisky (pork in brandy and garlic sauce)
- choco
a la riojana (squid)
- arroz
(rice)
- albondigas
(meatballs - not the italian kind)
- pollo
a la plancha (grilled chicken)
- urta
con tomate (fish)
Bodegon
Alfonso XII
(c/ Alfonso XII)
: Andalusian
: Cheap
Near the Museum of Bellas Artes. They have a very large
menu and a good amount of indoor seating as well as an English
menu. Bartenders are nice fellows. If you like garlic order
patatas a la brava - just about the best around.
And they always have arroz (rice) - every day.
- patatas
a la brava
(potatoes with garlic mayo and hot sauce)
- arroz
(rice)
- flamenquin
(pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep
fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
- chipiron
a la plancha (grilled squid)
- solomillo
al whisky (pork in brandy or whisky and garlic)
Bar
la Estrella
(c/
Estrella)
: Andalusian, innovative
: Moderate
What
isn't good here I don't know. It is tucked away in a back
street near the Alfalfa and offers 5-6 tables for outside
dining. Inside there's plenty of room and a very long list
of tapas. Offering traditional spanish food they also mix
it up with a few more exotic dishes and tapas. Tapas range
from 1.80-4€, this is a great place and a favorite
for locals.
Cafe
Bar La Universal
(Plaza
Salvador)
: Andalusian, innovative
: Moderate
Right off of Plaza Salvador it's a popular spot which is
often packed. They have some not so typical tapas and foods
to choose from and outdoor seating is the best - inside
they somehow always have the heat on. One waiter in particular
is known for his never-ending sense of humor - you'll know
when you get him.
- fideitos
de Cádiz
- tortilla
de verduras
Bodeguita
del Salvador
(Plaza Salvador)
: Andalusian
: Cheap
More of a place to drink a beer on Saturday or Sunday afternoon
in Plaza Salvador. People crowd into the bar to get a drink
and then make their way outside into the plaza or on the
steps of the church. Some days it can be difficult to make
your way to the bar, but few other bars have tables in the
same plaza. More recently you'll find some kind of live
music outside.
- cerveza!
- jamón
(ham)
- aceitunas
(olives)
- queso
(cheese)
- montaditos
(sandwiches - various)
Bar
Tino
(c/ Tarifa, 11)
: Andalusian
: Moderate
Close to El Corte Inglés en el Duque a good place
to stop for a cold beer after shopping. Plenty of seating
outside and in and always a tourist or two ordering the
worst thing off the menu, like a pork hamburger.
- arroz
- gazpacho
(when available)
Cafe
del Pintor
(CLOSED
- RELOCATING)
(c/Murillo)
: Noveau Cuisine
: Moderate
When and where they will reopen I don’t know yet.
They used to be tucked away on calle Murillo but are looking
for a bigger and better place. I learned about this place
from Manolo, a reporter for Diario de Sevilla. These are
tapas at their best with original recipes by some amazing
chefs.
Lizarran
(corner of c/ Aponte and c/Trajano)
: Northern Spain
: Moderate
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? Well, it's a
run chain restaurant and an interesting way to enjoy tapas.
Make your way inside and get a seat at the bar or a table
and grab a plate. Then help yourself, literally, to anything
you want to eat. There are a number of cold tapas along
the bar as the hot ones come out of the kitchen. Waiters
bring the hot ones around to everyone. Everything is on
a slice of bread with a toothpick. When your done they count
the toothpicks - the flat ones cost less than the round
ones - and give you your bill. As for the tapas they are
good and there are tons to choose from: sausages, chicken,
seafood, ham, chorizo, vegetables...even a spring roll.
Basically if they can fit it on a piece of bread they will
serve it up!
Bar
Santa Marta (aka: Los Azahares)
(Plaza San Andrés)
: Andalusian
: moderate
My question is – does this place hold the world’s
record for the largest flamenquin? I think they
might, at least for one regularly served in a bar. What
is a flamenquin? It’s pork wrapped in ham
and filled with cheese that is deep fried. This one is at
least a foot long. Other recommended dishes include solomillo
whisky, arroz (on Saturdays and Sundays),
and the frito variado. The plaza de San Andrés
is one of my favorite to sit and eat at – very large
with plenty of people passing by and a church as the backdrop.
The
Alfalfa is the area just above (on a map) Plaza Salvador
leading up to calle Aguilas and ending around Plaza Encarnación.
It borders the shopping district, Santa Cruz, Santa Catalina
and Puerta Carmona.
Bar
Manolo
(Plaza Alfalfa)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
One of my favorites as it was the first place I tried anything
en adobo. Located in the Alfalfa with a good amount
of outdoor seating, although tables can be hard to come
by on a nice night. Tapas, media raciones
and raciones are all generous in size, and very
reasonable priced: 1,30-2€. This is a favorite for
locals and the menu is about as straight Andalusian as you
can get.
- gambas
rebozadas (fried shrimp)
- pavia
de merluza (fried hake - fish - loin)
- solomillo
al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
- gazpacho
- gambas
a la plancha (grilled shrimp in shells)
El
Refugio
(c/ Huelva)
: Argentinian
: moderate
All good things come to an end, and while we hoped they
were just renovating the place it looks like it changed
ownership. Gone are the ca rañacas and with
it their secret recipe and the collection of key chains
hanging on the wall (I never got to add mine!). The new
place is decent and they offer some vegetarian dishes along
with grilled meats. They also serve up quesadillas the way
you may think of them back home - not in a cazuela
but between two pieces of flour tortilla. Try the parillada
for a mixed grill of two types of sausage, two kinds of
beef and chicken.
Bar
Kiko
(c/ Herbolarios, 17)
: Typical Andalusian
: cheap
Mom and pop bar with great tapas. Two dining rooms - one
I like to call the "fire trap" as it is located
behind the kitchen with no other exit. The other is a bit
larger and located next door. A few tables are outside as
well. If you eat one thing here make it the lagrimitas
de pollo. This is another place in the Alfalfa where
the menu is very typical Andalusian food. Tapas range from
1,50-2,25€.
- lagrimitas
de pollo (chicken
marinated in vinegar - adobo like)
- croquetas
- san
jacobo (ham and cheese deep-fried)
- pisto
(stew)
Pizzeros
Orsini y Angelo
(c/ Luchana, 2)
: Italian
: moderate
There are now two locations, one in the Alfalfa and another
near the Triana Bridge. This was my favorite pizza place,
but they have changed the inside and tried to become a little
more upscale. Unfortunately Let's Go "discovered"
them a few years ago, but it is still worth a trip. The
best thing is the pizza but they offer a full range of other
typical and not so typical Italian dishes. Prices range
from 6-8€ per plato.
- Pizza
Roma
- Pizza
5 quesos
- Moussaka
Bar
Alfalfa
(Plaza
Alfalfa)
: International / Italian
: moderate / cheap
Spanish
take on Italian food? One of the owners is Italian and while
they offer a few general spanish tapas they also offer plenty
tapas with more Italian flavor. This is a small corner bar
with a nice atmosphere, but it get's crowded easily and
table space is often hard to come by.
- pan
de la casa (like
bruschetta, if I'm spelling that right)
- provolone...
(it's fried provolone in a cazuela)
- mozzarella
de buffalo (buffalo mozzarella)
- surtido
de quesos (cheese
plate)
Bar
Europa
(Plaza del Pan)
: Andalusian
: moderate
A block behind Iglesia Salvador, they always have tables
in the plaza. Tapas range from traditional to a little experimentation.
A little pricey but the food is well worth it - a great
place to stop when you're finishing up the day in the shopping
district.
- salmorejo
(thicker, sweeter gazpacho)
- croquetas
de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
- espinacas
(stewed spinach with garbanzos)
Coloniales
(Plaza Cristo de Burgos or Plaza Ponce
de Leon depending on who you talk to)
: Andalusian
: cheap
Inside and outside seating but if you want to eat outside
get there early and put your name on the chalk board outside.
Some days you may wait 30 minutes, but you can always eat
at the bar or the dining room in the back. Tapas range from
1,75-3,50€ but they are HUGE, which makes
eating here very cheap. These folks may be the
gods of sauces - try solomillo in maybe seven different
ways. I have yet to eat anything here I don't like and have
often thought of giving up cooking at home. I likely would
if the wait weren't so long.
- solomillo
al whisky (pork loin in brandy and garlic sauce)
- solomillo
al porto (pork loin in port sauce)
- solomillo
a la castellana (pork loin with garlic, serrano ham
and mushrooms)
- champiñones
rebozados (fried mushrooms stuffed with ham and chorizo)
- tostadas
de la casa (various)
- pollo
con salsa de almendra (chicken in almond sauce)
- manjar
blanco (chicken in sauce)
- calamares
del campo (fried green pepper and onion - not squid)
- prueba
de chorizo (cooked chorizo)
Café
Bar Habanita
(c/ Golfo, 3)
: Cuban / Vegetarian / International
: moderate / cheap
This comes up in the vegetarian section for it’s selection
of veggie and vegan friendly dishes. But there’s also
meat! Cuban favorites like ropa vieja and a host
of original drinks are a good reason to dine here. It is
located down an alley in a small “plaza” away
from the noise of the Alfalfa.
Arenal
is the neighborhood between the Cathedral and the river,
beginning at Avda. Constitución and ending at the
river and the bridges leading to Triana and Los Remedios.
It borders the Plaza de Armas/San Pablo neighborhood.
El
Rincón Gallego
(c/ Harinas)
: Galician / Asturian
: moderate
Great Galician bar. Don't be fooled by other ones in Seville
as this is the only place to go. Drink sidra -
alcoholic cider typical of Asturias but also served in Galicia.
My favorites here are chorizo criollo and mejillones
al vapor. Tapas range in price from 1,50-2,50€.
Look for the purple octopus on the sign outside
and you're there.
- empanada
de atún (tuna empanada - accept no other)
- mejillones
al vapor (steamed mussels)
- berberechos
al vapor
(steamed clams, or similar to clams)
- bacalao
a la gallega
(fish with a few veggies)
- chorizo
criollo
(homemade sausage served with sauce)
- sidra
(cider)
Sierra
Mayor
(c/
Joachin Guichot)
: Extremadura
: moderate to expensive
A great place to go for a variety of famous jamón
and cured meats. Ham, chorizo, caña
de lomo...you name it: if it's cured pig it's here.
The fuentes give you a chance to try a little bit
of everything although
it can be a little expensive. Tapas range from 1,80-3,00€.
- fuente
de sierra mayor (a little of everything in the cured
meat department)
- fuente
de queso (many cheeses)
- croquetas
de espinaca (spinach croquettes)
- tostada
o pan de la casa (various)
Meson
la Infanta
(c/
Dos de Mayo, 26)
: Andalusian, innovative
: moderate to expensive
Just
about everything here is good, but especially the cured
meats such as the mouthwatering jamón. More
of an upscale eatery if you choose the restaurant but a
good place for tapas. Just down the street from the Teatro
Maestranza, they offer a typical spanish menu, a large bar
and an historic atmosphere. When coming from the Cathedral
look for the ceramic tile with the Infanta.
La
Moneda
(c/ Almirantazgo)
: Andalusian
: moderate to expensive
Not far from the cathedral and post office as you enter
the Arenal. More expensive and tapas are smaller but very
good. Expect a more upscale crowd here - I saw some local
actors come in who were treated like royalty as we were
passed over, but not for long. The service tends to be pretty
good.
- garbanzos
con bacalao (fish and garbanzo stew)
- langostinos
con bacon (shrimp wrapped in bacon)
- pez
espada empanado
(fried swordfish)
Casablanca
(c/ Zaragoza)
: Andalusian / Innovative
: moderate to expensive
While there isn’t much space the bar is known for
it’s tapas and crowds. Get here a little early and
then
be prepared to eat your tapas in a small, or shall we call
it intimate, atmosphere. Recommended by my family members.
Casa
de Extremadura
(c/ Fernandez y Gonzalez)
: Extremaduran
: Cheap
Think of it as a bar/restaurant/cultural center, although
the front looks just like a bar. The back is a socios
(members) area complete with a TV and a little more homey
atmosphere. The front is a nice place for a meal or the
menu del día, which we tried for a little
under 7 Euros. Excellent food from the region where we enjoyed
cocido - a stew complete with garbanzos, some vegetables,
morcilla (blood sausage), pork and tocino
(fat!). A very good meal for a reasonable price.
Bodeguita
Romero
(c/ Harinas)
: Andalusian
: Moderate
Another place which is worth a stop just for their specialty
– a montadito de pringa, a mixture of very
tender roasted pork mixed with a small amount of the ever
so tasty tocino (hog fat). Other tapas are on the
menu and good, but nothing beats the specialty of the house.
Taberna
Alabardero
(c/ Zaragoza)
: Spanish / Innovative / New Cuisine
: expensive unless you try
the menu at lunch
I'll let you in on a little secret. Well it's likely not
much of a secret anymore, but you'll enjoy this place if
you're looking for a nice dinner at a reasonable price.
Eat downstairs at El Alabardero for a full three course
meal for 10 Euros and I guarantee you won't have a better
meal in Spain for that price. This is no bar food or tapas,
although I don't have anything against the two. El Alabardero
is the school of hosteleria so you get some young
waiters who are practicing their skills but at a high level.
The menu changes most every day and you might consider the
food as being from the new school of Spanish cooking - they're
not afraid to use some interesting or exotic ingredients
in preparing the dishes. The presentation of the food is
also something to be seen. It's upscale at a very reasonable
price.
On the
opposite side of the Cathedral as Arenal, the area behind
the Alcazar and Cathedral bordering Menéndez Pelayo
and the Jardines Murrillo. It borders the Alfalfa neighborhood
and Puerta Carmona.
Las
Columnas
(corner of c/Mateos Gago and c/Rodrigo
Caro)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
Close to the Cathedral with a sign that reads Bodega Santa
Cruz. Don't believe it - everyone here calls it Las Columnas.
There are a few tables inside and outside but in general
very little seating. People tend to crowd around the bar
to order tapas while the bartenders keep your running tab
on the bar in grease pencil. Most of the bartenders have
been here forever and are accustomed to helping you with
your order, even if it means simply pointing to the chalk
board. Always a mix of lost looking tourists and locals.
Tapas are between 1,40-2,00€, and if you tip you may
see them throw it through the Chicago Bulls nerf hoop and
into the pot. Damn, they renovated and the nerf hoop is
gone. I have dreams about the ensaladilla at night...
- ensaladilla
(potato salad with tuna, crab, peas, carrots)
- flamenquin
(pork wrapped in ham and filled with cheese then deep
fried - can you say Homer Simpson?)
- pinchito
de cerdo
(brochette of seasoned pork)
- montaditos
(grilled sandwiches - various)
- gazpacho
- pollo
frito (fried morsels of chicken)
San
Marco
(c/Meson del Moro)
: Italian
: Moderate to expensive
Great
Italian food, and don't believe the other Seville web sites
or guide books which say 48€ for two. You can skip
that 20€ bottle of wine and eat plenty for around
25€. Eat at the Meson del Moro location for the best
atmosphere - set in what was formerly a 12th century Arab
bath. There are several other locations, including Calle
Betis (Triana) and Calle Cuna (Centro). While they offer
pizza I'd recommend eating any of the other dishes first.
And the salad with roquefort, endive and fresh corn is wonderful.
There are several other locations, which all have a unique
atmosphere. Most are in renovated 18th or 19th century houses
and include period decoration. I recently strolled by the
c/ Baños location and it has a nice cozy feel. It's
just off a side street from Plaza de la Gavidia in the center.
A little secret - if you want the same menu but for a better
price check out Restaurante Cereceto on c/ Pérez
Galdós. They are a San Marco franchise which offers
more or less the same food but in a more casual atmosphere.
El
Modesto
(c/ Cano y Cueto)
: Andalusian
: Moderate to expensive
One word for everything: delicious. Located near the Jardines
de Murillo with plenty of space at the bar and a lot
of outdoor seating. A more formal dining room is located
upstairs, but you can eat tapas at the bar for a reasonable
price. For what you get it's really not that expensive.
I think the coquinas, or little clams, are likely
the best in Sevilla. We also had gambas al ajillo,
shrimp cooked with olive oil, garlic and hot peppers. Don't
be afraid to make barquitos when you order this
- that is throw in little bits of bread to soak up the sauce.
A frito variado is always a good choice, when you
get 4-5 types of fish including calamares del campo,
which despite their name are not fish, rather fried onions
and green peppers. Finally solomillo al whisky
is excellent here, and it's my weakness when we dine out.
-
frito variado (sampler of fried fish)
- solomillo
whisky (pork loin)
- coquinas
(little clams)
- calamares
del campo (fried green pepper and onions)
Casa
Roman
(c/ Jamerdana)
: Andalusian
: Moderate to expensive
If you are looking for a little more upscale, but not too
upscale, this is a great bar in the heart of Santa Cruz
located just next to the Hospital de los Venerables. Another
place where the jamón comes highly recommended,
by both my family and the stranger next to me at the bar
who thought I was a lost foreigner having a hard time reading
the menu. A number of outside tables are available with
a nice view of the plaza and other diners. There’s
just something about the atmosphere – decoration and
feel – which makes it a great place to be.
Coral
del Agua
(c/ Agua, 6)
: Andalusian / Romantic
: Moderate to expensive
If you are looking for a romantic setting and don’t
mind forking over a little money the Coral del Agua helps
set the mood. In the middle of Santa Cruz right next to
the old city wall, the restaurant is in an 18th century
building the most charming section of Sevilla. Dining options
include a candlelit table in a plant and flower filled patio.
Service is excellent and the food very good.
Santa
Catalina is the area around the Iglesia Santa Catalina,
bordering around Plaza Encarnación, the Alfalfa,
Puerta Carmona and Puerta Osario. To the back bordering
calle Feria, the Alameda and Macarena neighborhoods.
La
Huerta
(Plaza de los Terceros)
: Andalusian / International / Vegetarian
: moderate
Very new and just down the street from my apartment with
lots of outdoor seating and very friendly owners. It is
currently undergoing renovations which should finish soon.
They offer some nice alternatives to the normal tapas you
find here. A lot of vegetarian friendly dishes. The tabla
de patatas comes with three amazing sauces. El
secreto (shhh..don't tell) is huge. Tapas range from
1,50-2,80€.
- tabla
de patatas con 3 salsas (roast potatoes with 3 dipping
sauces)
- tabla
de verduras (grilled vegetable kebob)
- quiche
de puerros (leak quiche)
- croquetas
(choose from cheese, cauliflower, ....)
- secreto
(pork steak)
- berenjenas
con miel (eggplant
with honey)
El
Rincóncillo
(Plaza de los Terceros - c/ Gerona)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
Oldest bar in Seville dating back to 1670. The current owners
are on their 8th generation dating back to 1800 or so. You
can never enter without seeing a tourist but it has a great
atmosphere, including a collection of (still full) bottles
of liquor some as old as 70 years. They say representatives
from the liquor companies come in every so often to try
and buy some of the older bottles - but they're not parting
with them. A new dining room upstairs in the old employee
quarters has turned this into a good full blown restaurant.
Despite the fame the food is cheap - tapas range in price
from 1,50-2,50€. Some of the cheapest beer in town
as well at 0,85€ a pop.
- jamón
(ham)
- espinacas
(cooked spinach)
- bacalao
con tomate
(fish with tomato)
- caldereta
(meat stew)
- queso
(cheese)
- caña
de lomo (cured pork)
Ajo
Blanco
(c/ Alhóndiga)
: International / Mexican / Vegetarian
: moderate to cheap
A little alternative in atmosphere, with papered walls including
slogans and graffiti from anyone who passes through. Jazz
and Feria posters hang here as well. Music varies from rock
to light jazz. Small number of tables and some space at
the bar to eat. Some dishes have an interesting Mexican
twist to them, all offered with a great hot sauce on the
side - you'll be warned la salsa pica! Prices range
from 1.80-4€ per tapa.
- enchiladas
(well, they're enchiladas)
- tejano
con carne picada y frijoles (ground
beef or pork plus beans served in a crunchy corn tortilla)
- tarta
vegetal con queso azul (vegetable
"cake" with blue cheese)
- ensalada
de cous cous (cous cous salad)
La
Giganta
(Plaza de los Terceros - c/ Alhóndiga, 6)
: Andalusian / New Cuisine
: Moderate
Another Santa Catalina favorite – I love my neighborhood
because just about every bar here serves good food! Some
original recipes including wild mushrooms, chicken in a
variety of sauces, the ever popular solomillo (again
with a choice of sauces) and specials just about every day.
They are known for their sauces! When the weather is nice
they have seating outside next to Iglesia Santa Catalina.
When it's cold but dry they use the outdoor heaters so you
can still eat outside!
El
Colmado
(Plaza Ponce de Leon, 5)
: Central Spanish
: cheap to moderate
This place often gets overlooked in Santa Catalina and Plaza
de los Terceros. It should not be missed if you like wine
and cheese (I know, you Carolina basketball fans may have
to overlook this one or swallow your pride). They have a
number of wines, be it of the day or of the week, always
changing their selection. They also have a very good cheese
plate and a seemingly endless menu including tapas, platos
para compartir (plates to share), media raciones
and raciones. The media ración
of ham is a great deal – 5 Euros for what could pass
as a ración. And the ham is good, not the
cheap stuff. Beware that sitting outside comes with a 15%
service charge. It’s one of the few places around
that I’ve seen which adds this charge, but the prices
and service are good.
Rayas
(c/
Almirante Apodaca)
: Dessert!
: moderate
Ice cream
only, but probably the best on earth. Take your pick from
maybe 30 - they are all good. 2,50€ for a small and
a little more for a medium cup. Exotic flavors whose names
I can't pronounce nor write, as well as some good, simple
favorites like chocolate, vanilla, and banana! This place
is famous and anyone who knows anything about ice cream
in Sevilla knows the name Rayas.
Puerta
Carmona is the area around the intersection of calle Luis
Montoto, Avda. Menéndez y Pelayo and calle San Esteban.
It borders Santa Cruz, the Alfalfa and Santa Catalina. Crossing
the main avenue of Menéndez y Pelayo you reach La
Buhaira and Nervión neighborhoods.
Bar
La Extremeña
(c/ San Esteban)
: Extremadura
: moderate
Real
wood fired grill right behind the bar, although it is currently
awaiting renovations so you'll have to live with an electric
grill for now. The place for grilled or a la plancha
meats. You can even order a pigs face (pestorejo)...mmm...pigs
face. The bar area is certainly rustic and makes you think
your in some little town in Extremadura. They have a larger,
more formal dining room next door where you can't order
tapas, but only media raciones or more. If you make a reservation
check out the dining area and get the table tucked away
in the little room - it looks like a great place for a nice
meal. Tapa prices in the bar range from 1,75-5€.
- chorizo
al infierno (hot chorizo cooked in liquor at your
table)
- surtido
de queso (sampler of cheeses)
- surtido
de chacina (sampler of cured meats)
- surtido
de carne (sampler of grilled meats)
- costillas
de cerdo (pork ribs)
- presa
iberica (pork loin)
- pluma
iberica (pork loin?)
- migas
(something like stuffing)
Antiguas
Piletas
(c/ San Esteban)
: Andalusian / Innovative / RUDE PEOPLE
: moderate
Rather than remove it I would prefer to warn people that
the staff here can be, at most times: rude, offensive and
certainly not friendly. We have sworn this place off after
several reports from others and our own experiences. I DO
NOT LIKE THESE PEOPLE!!!!
Further
away on Avda. Menéndez Pelayo from Puerta Carmona
and Santa Cruz, Puerta Osario borders the Santa Justa, Macarena
and Santa Catalina neighborhoods.
Café
Bar Eme
(c/ Osario)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
Another place with what you’d call a typical Andalusian
kitchen, serving up a large and recommended coctail
de mariscos (crab, fish and shrimp served on a bed
of lettuce covered with red - Spanish style - cocktail sauce).
This is the sweeter variety, not the spicy kind from the
U.S. that some of you may be used to. This is another place
which comes recommended from a very reliable source (family)
but I’ve yet to try.
Rincón
del Tito
(c/ Escuelas Pias)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
If there were a Bar Manolo II I would give the honor to
this place. The menu is about the same, portions a little
smaller, but at a very good price. Plenty of outdoor seating
along calle Escuelas Pias.
The
Alameda neighborhood is named for the large open, dirt plaza.
It runs along calle Feria and the Macarena neighborhood
leading to the river and the Puente de la Barqueta.
Café-Bar
"El Ambigú"
(c/
Feria)
: Andalusian / Innovative
: Cheap
Located
on Calle Feria they have a few outside tables but offer
more tables inside. Especially keep an eye on their daily
offerings listed on the chalkboard, which I've found not
only delicious but generous in size. Was full from two tapas
plus two beers here for about 5,50€. If you go a little
more standard the menu del día offers a drink,
your choice of dishes for 1st and 2nd plates (two courses)
and then dessert for around 6,50€. You come away very
full. I had an amazing piece of roast chicken (large and
delicious) and a great salad off the menu del día
one day.
- pollo
a la cerveza (when available)
- chorizo
asturiano a la sidra (when available)
- merluza
La
Ilustre Victima
(c/ - Doctor Letamendi)
: International / /Moroccan / Mexican
: Moderate
Middle eastern specialties plus original Andalusian dishes
in what turns into an alternative bar de copas
later at night. A large menu of teas to choose from plus
some good Mexican food and a real beef hamburger. Their
baklava, or what are called pasteles arabes, are
small but delicious. They also offer cous cous, shoarmas
and some other tasty dishes.
La
Madrasa
(c/ Peris Mencheta)
: Andalusian / Innovative / Vegetarian
: Moderate
Just off of calle Feria towards the Alameda is a restaurant
Markus of sevilla5.com showed me a few months ago. If you
want to get a seat get there early so you can avoid the
wait, and this place is best for dinner. Original recipes
made from fresh ingredients make this a good choice.
I wish
I could remember what I ate here, but I can't. A shame because
it's one of the better places to eat in the city. As I was
recently informed by a reader and should have mentioned
after many attempts - get here early! Try 9:30 or earlier
if you want to get a table. Still, it's worth the wait!
The
Macarena neighborhood borders the Alameda and Santa Catalina
leading to the Macarena church and the Andalusian Parliament.
Behind the Parliament building leading to the Puente del
Alamillo is considered the Macarena neighborhood by many
as well, although most of it was built in the 1950's or
later.
Bar
La Manchega
(c/ Diamante and Avda de Doctor Fedriani)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
Do you want to be the only foreigner in a chaotic neighborhood
bar far from the center where they don’t have table
service? YES! You do want to be! Rid yourself of your frightened
guiri (foreigner/tourist) instincts and head out
past the Macarena and past the Hospital Virgen de la Macarena.
You're in what used to the sticks for Sevilla but what is
now plenty of 70’s style apartment buildings. On a
corner you will find La Manchega and a bit of happiness
in locating a wonderful, typical Andalusian menu. I so highly
recommend the solomillo a la plancha. Tender, roasted
over real wooden coals which pop as the meat slowly cooks.
I have no idea how it comes out so tender! Then try a media
racion of patatas bravas, covered with a large
amount of garlic mayo and salsa brava (think spicy
ketchup, but better). You’ll have to listen for the
bartenders as they scream out your dish, not your name.
Note that they take the day off on Saturday - it's closed,
but they open on Sunday!
Bar
Yebra
(Calle Medalla Milagrosa, 3)
: Andalusian / Innovative
: Moderate
Here is where it all began. Before El Rincón de la
Buhaira and Tapas Viapol this was, and still is, the place
to eat in the Macarena if not all of Sevilla. This is where
the revuelto de chorizo was invented, at least
in the present, delicious form as it is served in several
other offshoots of the bar (again, see Tapas Viapol and
El Rincón de la Buhaira). But don't forget the rest
of the menu: jalabí (boar) in a tasty fruit
sauce (was it raspberry?) or the carrillada, or
the flamenquin, or...the list goes on and on...
Reyes
Católicos Plaza de Armas |
Between
the Plaza Magdalena in the shopping district leading to
Plaza de Armas bus station. Borders the river and Arenal.
Berrocal
(c/ Moratin, 15)
: Andalusian / New Cuisine / Innovative
: Moderate
Down a back alley from the El Corte Inglés in the
Plaza Magdalena is this new place, or at least new to me.
There are really two locations, one just across the street
from the other. Plenty of tapas served up in little cazuelas
which are wonderful. You can also get your fill of wild
game with things like jabalí (wild boar)
and ciervo (deer, or if you prefer another name,
venison). The caldereta de ciervo (deer stew) is
one of my favorites, plus my friend Karen had me quickly
addicted to the bolitas de patata y queso, a fried
ball of mashed potato filled with cheese and served in a
cheese sauce. Also take time out to sample some of the fish
dish, like the merluza (hake).
Across
the Triana Bridge and the area to the right and left, and
heading back on calle San Jacinto. Many consider most of
calle Betis to be Triana. It borders Los Remedios.
La
Oliva
(c/ San Jacinto)
: Typical Andalusian
: Cheap
Just found this place thanks to Granada. Everything we tried
(listed below) was great, and everything else that came
out of the kitchen made me even hungrier. It may be a hike
from the center, but well worth it. Choose from two dining
rooms, a few tables outside or a place at the bar. Tapas
from 1,50-2,50€. A favorite for locals and a typical
Andalusian menu.
- croquetas
de jamón (ham croquettes)
- pavia
de bacalao (salty loin of cod, fried)
- solomillo
con bacon (pork loin, bacon and a fried green pepper
as a sandwich)
- cola
de langosta
(lobster tail with cocktail sauce)
- chipirones
a la plancha (grilled squid)
- serranito
(pork loin, ham, and fried green pepper as a sandwich)
Bar
la Calle Larga
( c/ Pureza)
: Andalusian
: Cheap
Calle Larga is really calle Pureza, but it’s such
a long street that sometimes locals may end up calling it
larga or long. This place has one specialty in
my mind, although two great dishes which I tried. The chicken
wings are fried just the way they should be – nothing
but a little salt. They are amazing enough you’ll
forget any sauce you may be missing from home. Also try
the shrimp wrapped in bacon which are, of course, fried!
El
Faro de Triana
(c/ San Jacinto – Plaza del Altozano)
: Andalusian
: Moderate to expensive
If only for the view it is worth trying at least a tapa
just across the river in Triana. With four levels to choose
from – both indoor and outdoor – you get a great
view of the river, the Triana bridge and the rest of the
center of Sevilla. The food is decent enough, although you
will pay less in other places for the same quality. Bring
your camera or just your sunglasses: remember you are here
to enjoy the view!
Azteca
(Tex Mex)
(c/ Salado)
: Mexican
: Moderate
We went down to calle Salado, which has several international
restaurants in a row, plus a few just a block or two away
Azteca is new and looks like a chain restaurant but from
all I can tell it isn’t. The portions are not large
but the food definitely tasty with some really good tacos
(warning – 1 taco costs about 3,80 Euros). Still,
we made it out after 4 beers and 5 plates for under 30 Euros.
The stuffed jalapeno are spicy and each one with a different
filling (beans, cheese, chicken and tuna). The chimichangas
look more like large soft tacos, the quesadillas still aren’t
the kind I get back home (served in a cazuela,
not between two tortillas) but the flavor is authentic.
Plus they serve about 15 kinds of tequila. We'll ignore
the fact they don’t serve Cruzcampo…
Pizzeria
Napoletana Cosa Nostra
(Triana - c/Betis 51)
: Italian
: Moderate
Offering typical Italian dishes such as pizza, lasagna,
plenty of pasta dishes and a few meat and chicken plates.
What used to look like the brother of Mama Mia has gone
upscale with a recent renovation. Modern look, a little
of a pijo crowd and what looks like a better, yet
more expensive menu. Why there is a wall sized picture of
Edward Norton and Ralph Fiennes in the place we may never
know, unless they stopped by before the renovation. Kind
of reminds you of a men's clothing store with these pictures.
A lot of seating means you shouldn't have a problem finding
a table.
Crossing
over Avda Menéndez y Pelayo from Puerta Carmona.
La Buhaira is the area between around the three parallel
streets: calle de Enramadilla, Eduardo Dato and Luis Montoto,
crossed with the Avda de la Buhaira. It borders Viapol and
the Porvenir and Nervión neighborhoods. Nervión
is past La Buhaira, bordering the Santa Justa neighborhood
(around the train station). Nervión is mainly the
area around the large mall and the Sevilla F.C. stadium.
Asador
Sinai
(c/Sinai)
: Andalusian
: Moderate
A great place for a Sunday lunch, just make it here early
to get a table. Meat is certainly the specialty here, with
your choice of pork, beef or lamb. We ordered thin slices
of beef filet which we then cooked ourselves over a small
grill with fresh coals, brought to our table. Another one
of my favorites is the presa iberica, nice cutlets
of high quality pork grilled and served, of course, with
potatoes. The desserts are homemade and well worth it if
you still have the appetite.
La
Casa de las Costillas
(Nervión Plaza)
: American
: Moderate to expensvie
The only real American steak/rib restaurant around. Catch
a cab or bus, or go for a long walk from the center as this
one is located in Nervión Plaza, unfortunately one
of the malls in Seville next to Seville F.C. stadium (blech).
Curiously named sandwiches for states and cities
in the US whose ingredients have nothing to do with the
actual place. Real ribs, hamburgers and steaks just like
back home. Western music, antique signs, peanuts at the
bar, as well as a collection of old soda bottles complete
the theme. It is one "American Restaurant" that's
got the whole theme right. Prices range from 6-15€
per plato.
Lizarran
(corner of c/ Aponte and c/ Trajano)
: Nothern Spanish
: Moderate
What's a chain restaurant doing on my list? And wasn't this
listed above for el centro? It is a chain restaurant
and an interesting way to enjoy tapas. Make your way inside,
get a seat at the bar or a table and grab a plate. Then
help yourself, literally, to anything you want to eat. There
are a number of cold tapas along the bar as the hot ones
come out of the kitchen. Waiters bring the hot ones around
to everyone. Everything is on a slice of bread with a toothpick.
When your done they count the toothpicks - the flat ones
cost less than the round ones - and give you your bill.
As for the tapas they are good and there are many varieties
to choose from: sausages, chicken, seafood, ham, chorizo,
vegetables...even a spring roll. Basically if they can fit
it on a piece of bread they will serve it up!
El
Rincón de la Buhaira
(c/ Blanco White)
: Andalusian / Innovative
: Moderate
Another place to get to early rather than later, especially
on a weekend night. El Rincón de la Buhaira is located
in La Buhaira of course, a neighborhood on your way out
to Nervión, on a parallel street to Luis Montoto.
We had a meal so wonderful we left feeling drunk from all
of the food, or was that the complimentary shot of liqueur
we had on our way out? This bar was founded by a former
waiter of Bar El Yebra, a famous place among locals for
tapas. Try the reveulto con chorizo famous here
and at El Yebra.
Cerveceria La Reina
(Avda. de l Buhaira)
: Andalusian
: Moderate
We've enjoyed a few visits recently with family and found
this a good place for lunch. A wide variety of seafood,
plus several daily specials. Best of all the service has
been very good. We have always sat outside where there are
a number of tables. Afterwards you can stroll in the Jardines
de la Buhaira, the gardens just a minute away.
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