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I recommend spending at the most 2 days in Córdoba.
The Mezquita should be first on your list,
while the alcazar just down the street from the mezquita
is worth a trip but nowhere close to what you'll see  in
the alcazar in Seville. Of interest across the street from
the Alcazar are some recently discovered
Arab baths. Include the Roman bridge
and a trip through the streets close to the mezquita in
your first day. There are plenty of hotels and cheap hostels
located around the mezquita, with the cheaper being further
away. You can easily get away with a day trip here if you
arrive early, but if you'd like to see the ruins of the
Medina
Azahara, a Moorish palace and city on the outside
of town, it may be best to spend a night and then part of
the second day exploring the ruins. You could then return
to Seville or go onto Granada. When in Córdoba there
are two restaurants I can recommend, although both are on
the expensive side. El Caballo Rojo is
next to the Mezquita and is quite expensive, but is one
of Córdoba's (and Spain's) best restaurants. They
are famous for salmorejo or try the ajoblanco,
a white gazpacho made with almonds and grapes. Casa
Pepe is also another alternative and a bit cheaper.
If you ask for either place locals will know and can direct
you.
Plan to spend at least two days in Granada, although much
more time could be spent here if you wish to explore both
the nightlife and the Sierra Nevadas
after the regular sights. First on the list is of course
the Alhambra.  Do
buy your tickets at least a day in advance, and ignore those
lucky people who tell you how they just showed up on the
same day and didn't have a problem. Some weekends the tickets
are sold out, and some days the best hours are sold out.
If you have a short amount of time in Granada and want to
make the most out of it then knowing your time in advance
will help. Also, you avoid hiking up the hill only to find
you can't enter for another 3 hours. More information on
buying your tickets can be found at the BBVA
ticket information page. Or you can purchase your tickets
online using a cooler domain name Alhambratickets.com,
although it's just the BBVA page. You may wish to spend
the whole day exploring the Alhambra. Include the Mirador
de San Nicolas and the old Arab quarter, or Albaicín
in your second day, perhaps taking in the Cathedral
and Capilla Real. The best time to visit
the Mirador de San Nicolas is before the sunset. You can
get good pictures of the Alhambra during the end of the
day and then some fantastic night shots. Then head down
and wander through the Albaicín and the many shops
at the bottom near calle Elvira. While it is nice to see
the Alhambra from the Mirador in the morning, the sun is
often behind the Alhambra making for poor photos. It's hard
to miss the miniature medina Granda has established
on one street at the entrance to the Albaicín off
calle Elvira. While it's not close to the scope of the medinas
in Morocco you can find a wide variety of goods, bars and
restaurants: ceramics, rugs, lamps, furniture, spices, teas,
a bakery and plenty of tea salons. A nice, relaxing activity
is visiting Granada's hammam,
a spa of sorts whose activity surrounds the comforts of
arab baths of varying temperatures. All in a traditional
atmosphere with lots of tile, mosaics, fountains, etc. They
also offer massages, a very nice tea room and a restaurant.
It's located on calle Santa Ana just behind the church and
the tourist office.
For dining and nightlife Granada has plenty to offer. Calle
Elvira is famous for it's weekend nightlife. Just
next to it Elvira is the Albaicín where you will
find plenty of bars with terraces that are great for a drink
or two, as well as a number of tea houses with a laid back
atmosphere. When it comes to eating Granada is known for
it's free tapas! Almost every place offers you a little
something to eat provided you order a beer or wine. At times
it will be chips or peanuts (NOT a tapa in my opinion) but
many times it's something a little more filling - meats,
montaditos, mushrooms, etc. When I compare this
to Sevilla, where you almost always pay for your tapas,
it's a nice change. Still, the beer in many cases is smaller
and a little more expensive. The tapas are also smaller
than what you would get in Sevilla or other cities when
you pay for them. In the end I do think you come out ahead
in Granada when you are tapeando, and who could
really complain about free tapas! We enjoyed eating at Antigua
Bodega Castañeda on calle Elvira. There
are two Castañedas on parallel streets, owned by
the same people. We ate at the less popular one simply because
the other was packed. Both are excellent. Also Bar
Oliver is one I would highly recommend for tapas,
although you must get there early. It's in a nice plaza
a few blocks from the Cathedral including a small number
of standing only tables outside. There's more room inside,
but it fills up quick. For lunch one day we headed to a
small town, Huetor Vega, to eat at Restaurante Balcón
del Genil. You will need directions to arrive,
as it is perched on a hill just outside the pueblo.
The restaurant has seating for what seems like a thousand
people, with view of the valley below. At one time it was
a small place, almost a shack. Now it has several floors
a large terrace and a patio when it's warm. Order anything
- I do mean anything - and it will be good. We opted for
various cuts of solomillo in different sauces.
Add to that a few dishes to start, dessert and a shot of
orujo and we left very satisfied.
Depending on what you want to do in Cádiz you may
be able to make this a day trip. If you are interested in
the sites of Cádiz and not hitting the beach you
can catch an early morning train and  come
back that evening. Trains leave almost every hour from Seville's
Santa Justa train station. Check out the transportation
section for more information. If you are going for the sites
and stay over on a Saturday night consider taking one of
the double-decker tour buses. I know it sounds silly, but
if you purchase an 8€ ticket on Saturday morning it
is good for the whole weekend. You can get on and off the
bus as much as you like, making it easier to see the whole
city. You can catch the bus (two companies run identical
routes) about 100 meters from the Cathedral if you head
towards the ocean. The Cathedral, the surrounding
plaza and the roman amphitheater can be covered in about
1-2 hours. Nearby you can see the Cárcel
Real, or Royal Prison and head towards the beach
if you want to take in the sun. There are also a few bars
on the beach if you plan to stay a little longer.
Most of the sites are along the water. I recommend using
the walkway by the Playa de La Caleta to
see the outside of the Castillo de San Sebastian.
Just watch out for the sea spray in a few places. It appears
they are renovating the Castillo grounds but I have no information
on when they will open. After you walk back you can stop
by the Antiguo Balneario de la Palma, former
refuge of the well-to-do and setting for the latest James
Bond movie. Also include the gardens and parks in Parque
Genovés and Alameda Apodaca.
Include time for a drink in one of the park cafes with views
of the other towns and cities across the sea if you have
time.
I can offer less information on Málaga as I spent
a day and a half there. It is a place to hit the beach,
although most people head to Torremolinos
or other beaches just outside of Málaga. The center
of the city is the best place to be in my opinion. We stayed
in an NH hotel mainly because there was a reduced price
and  we
were heading to the airport in the morning. I do not recommend
this hotel if you want to see Málaga itself, as it
is further from the center. To eat there are a few well
known places on the beach where you can get fresh seafood,
including sardines roasted over a fire. There is a nice
pedestrian shopping street in the centr of the city, with
a few good restaurants tucked away close by.
For sights the Alcazar located on the
hills above is a great visit and provides views of the city
and surrounding beaches. On a trip through the historic
center you can take in the cathedral and other buildings.
More information is coming soon, or rather coming when I
get back to Málaga.
Carmona is an easy day trip from Seville, with buses leaving
every hour or so from the Prado bus station. It's a perfect
fit for one day. While the central square where the bus
drops you off is not so  picturesque
most of the sites to see are in the older portion of the
town up the hill. On your way up the hill you'll first notice
the 15th century tower modeled after the Giralda in Seville.
The Alameda is a nice stop for a rest,
with fountain and a large plaza where you'll often see children
playing or folks simply passing time. Upon reaching the
older city center you'll pass through the Puerta
de Sevilla leading to the more "typical pueblo"
portion of Carmona. The tourist office is located here and
you can get a map guiding you to the sites. Just to the
back of Plaza de San Fernando is the main
market where you can do a little shopping
for fruits, vegetables and fresh meat if you get here before
the morning is over. Up the hill is the Parador
which was first built by the Moors and later renovated and
taken over by Rey Don Pedro. Now a hotel it preserves the
traditional patios and houses many antiques. While you may
not choose to stay there for the night you can go in and
get a drink in the restaurant area. If you're lucky a table
will be free on the outside terrace. The drinks are a little
expensive but it's worth it for the view. Dining here is
good but quite expensive as well and you would do better
to choose an establishment down the hill a bit. Close by
are the Puerta de Córdoba which
has been rebuilt in according to it's Roman origins. The
gothic Iglesia Santa Maria, like so many
churches in Andalucia, was built over a mosque and preserves
the original minaret.
A trip to Carmona should also include a visit to the Roman
necropolis which is at the bottom of the hill.
Once on the grounds you can step below into and see where
actual burial rooms, dating from the 2nd century B.C. to
the 4th century A.D.. Urns and some frescoes have been preserved
and very close by there is an amphitheater. Carmona's Museo
de la Ciudad (City Museum) also has a number of
good exhibits, covering Neolithic, Roman and Islamic periods
amongst others. I've never had much luck finding a good
place to eat in Carmona. That's not to say there isn't some
place good, I think that there are few good places to eat
and I just haven't had time to find the good ones. Wait,
I did manage a stop at Sierra Mayor,which is a chain with
a location in Sevilla as well. We were very pleased with
our meal there. It is a little expensvie but a good choice
for cured meats and a variety of tapas. Also good for a
beer or two as you wait for your family members to finish
touring the museum next door.
Ronda is high on most people's list of the typical pueblos
blancos in Andalucia and while it's certainly filled with
tourists the cliffs and surrounding views will not disappoint.
There's a reason everyone is visiting. Again, the cliffs
offer some great views and most of the sites are centered
here.
The Plaza de Toros is the oldest in Spain,
and while it is no longer an active site for corridas,
some very famous names have passed through and entering
to see museum is a worthwhile stop. Pedro Romero, perhaps
the most famous bullfighter in all of Spain, had a storied
career in the venue. Just behind the Plaza de Toros is a
park with a mirador, in much nicer shape than it
was some 10 years ago. Go to the edge and then look down
for a bit of vertigo. If you follow the walkways along the
cliff you can continue on with a view, using the Parador's
terrace as you wander towards the El Tajo
(the cliffs over the gorge) and the Puente Nuevo
(New Bridge). The Parador is less in the style of old castles
or historic buildings and more a modern establishment. While
there was certainly some history to the hotel you don't
get a good feel. Rooms are available overlooking the cliffs.
Once you round the bend you arrive to a great view of the
Puente Nuevo and the buildings perched on the cliffs across
the way. The bridge itself lends to two views - towards
the open spaces and behind it a deep drop with a number
of restaurants and bars with terraces overlooking the River
Guadalevín. Across the bridge there is access
to a trail that will take you to the foot of the cliffs.
Great on the way down but an extremely tiring journey back
up. Some 12 years ago we managed lunch below on the trail,
but had a hard time keeping it down as we made our way back
to the town. Lean ring this lesson we stayed away from the
trail during our last trip.
Ronda is a pleasant town just to stroll around. The main
pedestrian shopping street, Calle Nueva,
leads from the Plaza de Toros to the less tourist areas
at the end. On your way through there's a plaza
with some outdoor cafes and restaurants with a church and
fountain as "centerpieces". We had our meal a
little ways away at Restaurante Felix,
whose specialty is grilled meat. We had a very good meal
for a reasonable price - maybe 15 Euros per person, including
a few drinks, large main course and a few dishes for starters.
Well worth it was the solomillo iberico (grilled
pork loin), the chuletas de cordero (lamb chops)
and the beef filet.
Ahhh, Marbella. This is a beach filled with tourists but
there are some good things to do. If you like the idea of
a vacation which requires no Spanish speaking this just
may be your spot. The beaches are nice and for the most
part there is space to walk during high-tide. The sunsets
from the beach, over the mountains, are beautiful. On a
clear day we were able to see Gibraltar and even across
to Morocco.
 Marbella
is heavily developed and much larger than I thought, so
much of your experience depends on where exactly you will
be staying. But again, if you're here for the beach you
don't need much more than the sun and sand. We were at the
Marriott Marbella Beach Resort (there are two Marriott's
in Marbella) which was off of N340 on the Elviria exit (or
"cambio de sentido" as they call it). We had an
excellent meal at Merendero Cristina which
is next to the Marriott and right on the the beach. Very
quick service and excellent food. Some recommendations or
ideas for what to do based on our experiences. Old
town part of Marbella is very
clean and quaint during the day but plenty of action at
night. The Plaza de los Naranjos is where
you'll find the tourist office and a map. Making your way
around the back streets you'll find plenty of good restaurants,
pubs and bars. Further towards the water is the Alameda
and then Avenida del Mar where the activity
is geared towards tourists - gift shops, boat rides and
more.
I've separated out some day trips we made from Marbella
to Mijas and Benahavis,
which you can read below. I have heard that Istan is very
nice as well, although we did not have time to make it there.
Gibraltar is perhaps an hour away, where you can catch a
glimpse of the rock apes (which are really monkeys), explore
the tunnels in the rock or stop by a pub for a pint and
listen to a curious mix of English and Andaluz. While in
Marbella we spent much of our time at the beach as one should
do. There is the Castle of Sohail
and park grounds right on the waterfront when entering
Fuengirola, just off of N340. Originally
built in the 12th century by the Almovarides, it is on a
hill overlooking the water. This is a convenient stop on
your way to Mijas. We did not stop due to time but the views
looked great and it is very easy to get off and back on
the highway.
If you will be driving to Marbella from Sevilla I highly
recommend going through Ronda. Use
A-376 which takes you from Sevilla to Marbella and through
a natural park, mountains and plenty of scenery. The road
numbers have just changed (A-376 is the new name), and it
is well marked on the return trip to Seville but not as
well indicated on the trip down. The road itself is in good
shape. Ronda and Grazalema are both worth a stop. Once you
get close to Marbella there are some great views of the
ocean from the mountains with plenty of places to stop and
take pictures. Part of the natural park you pass through
has almost a lunar landscape. This route takes longer than
the highway from Sevilla to Málaga, but if you are
traveling you will appreciate this way over a 4-lane highway
to Málaga. Ronda is a great stop for an hour, two
or more. If you do drive note that once arriving at the
Costa del Sol there are two main highways - N340 which is
free and another which is a toll road (it is indicated with
a sign that says "peaje".) N340 is fine and of
course you avoid paying some higher fees.
Puerta Banus: this is the
very rich section of Marbella and I wanted to list it apart.
Here you can see all of the yachts and wander along the
waterfront, where there are plenty of high-end shops and
boutiques, restaurants, bars and expensive cars. We learned
the El Corte Inglés parking lot was cheaper than
the public lot - the first two hours are free if you have
an El Corte Inglés credit card. It's about 2 blocks
from the water and if you need to pick up a book in English
they have a decent selection in the store. Eating In Puerta
Banus is more expensive and there are a number of restaurants,
all of which are owned by the same person, which offer a
15 Euro menú del dia. There is an American restaurant
on the waterfront, too, should some of you be missing home.
This is where the wealthy come to play and you will see
your fair share of filthy rich people in designer clothes
- it was enough for us to laugh more than once. Check some
of the listings in one of the yacht sales offices to see
some incredible luxury and very high prices. It seems much
of the port serves as a type of used car lot, with many
yachts and boats sporting for sale signs.
In contrast to the expat haven of Benahavis
this is a very typical pueblo blanco with plenty of expats!
They've managed to save the appearance of the typical pueblo
blanco although due to it's proximity to the Costa del Sol
you'll find plenty of restaurants and shops catering to
tourists and relocated Europeans. We enjoyed a morning with
spectacular views of the mountains leading down to the sea.
There are three main  overlooks
not including the view from the , monastery, or hermitage
of El Puerto, a small building perched well above
the town and accessible by foot only. We were tempted by
the burro (donkey) taxis,
which have room for two but cost 14 Euros. They take you
around the center and some people looked like they really
enjoyed them. Had they been able to take me up to the top
to see the monastery high above I might have paid. There
is also a chapel located in a cave near
the tourist office which was interesting and much less of
a hike. There is a legend of a virgen appearing in the cave
and thus up sprang the chapel. The "less impressed
by another church" part of me especially liked the
air-conditioner wedged into the solid rock wall.
The town offers much in the way or artisans - both local
and expat - with some interesting shopping especially around
the plaza just below the Plaza de Toros.
While we did not make it into the Plaza de Toros and it's
museum it is a site to see from outside: a small venue,
well kept and bullfights are still held here. Wandering
a bit west you can see more of the typical and less touristy
part of the village. Whitewashed houses and narrow streets
run along the mountain side. It was also here that we saw
a house whose iron railings formed the crest of the Real
Madrid fútbol club.
Benahavis is a small expat town with very good dining, maybe
15 minutes away from Marbella depending on your location.
The drive up the mountain offers plenty of views as you
wind your way alongside a river and gorge. We really loved
this place even if it was less "typical" than
Mijas. And while there is a lot of construction (which you'll
see from below upon arriving), the center of the town up
above is very nice. There are a few main streets filled
with shops and very good restaurants - all of them! We met
several people from the UK, including a bar owner who didn't
speak Spanish. In this bar we happened upon a Spanish class
for Brits who had just recently arrived in the town and
had a little fun helping them pronounce some basic words.
We were also treated to fresh goat cheese - meant for the
class but they had extra and passed it around to the rest
of the folks in the bar.
In Benahavis we ate at Restaurante Eugenio Las
Cañas, which is on a little plaza and has
a dining room which looks out onto the mountains. The meal
was very large - a specialty of the town is lamb - and after
several courses and some dishes larger than average in size
we took an evening stroll around the rest of the town. There
are less historical monuments and more "charming"
streets, plazas and restraints to be discovered in Benahavis.
It's proximity to golf courses and easy access to Marbella
has meant high real estate prices and a lot of new construction.
The Gran Hotel Benahavis, a nice 4 star
accommodation, sits at the foot of the mountain and caters
to golfers well.
There is but one reason to come to Punto Umbria - to eat!
Well, there is a beach which is quite nice when the winds
don't kick the sand up. Punta Umbria is a small coastal
town on the Atlantic just outside of Huelva which has been
built up over the years. Piling into two cars with members
of two families we made the trip from Seville in a little
over an hour. Our destination: Restaurante Miramar,
which is simply the best place to eat in Punta
Umbria and the crowds indicate that it is well known! If
you plan to go on a Sunday do make reservations ahead of
time or you may find yourself eating at 5pm, or not eating
at all. The place at one point was more of a shack where
you could order up seafood and eat it there or take it with
you. Over the years the owners have had great success and
it's now a full service restaurant. If you're lucky you
get a table next to the window which is right on the beach.
On this day there were high winds so very little beach goers
but plenty of wind surfers.
If you eat at Restaurante Miramar the best dish is likely
the coquinas, little clams that for one reason
or another aren't consumed often in the U.S. (I don't pretend
to know why). They're bigger than average and served in
an olive oil and garlic sauce (don't be afraid to use some
bread to mop up the sauce!). I think just about any seafood
ordered at the restaurant will please you, but for good
measure here's what we ordered: cazón en adobo,
gambas al ajillo, calamares (incredible - best we've
ever had), coquinas, merluza in a shellfish
sauce and another plate of some fish that was quite good.
Afterwards dessert - the fig cheesecake is a good choice
even though it sounds strange - then coffee, then a mixed
drink and then back home to Sevilla.
We had hoped to make our way around the town but the wind
and the mouthfuls of sand that go with it, led us to the
decision of a "car based tour". Basically driving
through a few smaller towns along the coast until we hit
the main highway back to Sevilla. If you have a Sunday free,
a car, and a craving for excellent seafood this is a great
trip. If the wind is right you can also enjoy a day at the
beach.
While the beaches of the Medeterreanean may be the vacation
paradise of many northern Europeans a lot of the Atlantic
remains the playground of the Spaniards. Ok, in the past
10-15 years a lot of these beach towns along the Atlantic
are also being frequented by folks from other countries.
Conil is  known
for having many German tourists amongst others, but still
offers some authentic Spanish life. One of the appeals to
Conil is the size of the beach: wide enough to accommodate
many people, and if you venture across the inlet on pedestrian
bridge you'll find less people and more nature. From the
beach you can see the town rise up the hill, while along
the beach there still exist a few small farms, complete
with horses and goats. If the sand is kicking up due to
the winds (the famous levante everyone talks about)
then head to the las callas, or
the cliffs some 15 minutes away where the beaches are small
but protected from the winds. There are also several trails
running along the cliffs which are great for horseback riding
or biking. If you look hard enough you may find the nude
beach, too! Follow the paths for a while and you'll reach
the lighthouse which overlooks a small port. In reality
both the lighthouse and the man made port aren't much to
look at compared to the natural scenery.
Once the day is over there are plenty of bars and restaurants
to choose from up the hill, offering some great seafood
and nightlife. From the plaza next to Iglesia Santa
Catalina there are two tascas which are
worth trying. The first is La Tasquita de Juan
on c/ Padre Caro, where we enjoyed a brocheta de merluza
(fish kebab) and an interesting but tasty salad with roquefort
dressing. Just up the hill from a bar on the corner of the
plaza is Tasca Santa Catalina. The tables
outside run down the sidewalk (and the hill). The wait to
put your order in can be long, but afterwards the food comes
quickly. The pez espada, or swordfish
is excellent. Puntillitas (fried baby squid) and
the solomillo are good as well. Just up the street
on c/ Sres. Curas is Heladeria Los Valencianos,
where you can order anything from a simple cone to one of
many elaborate sundaes and frozen treats. You can sit on
one of the tables in the very brightly lit plaza and watch
the people pass by. Try and find Restaurante Juan
Maria, which has an outdoor patio overlooking the
beach. You may need reservations to get a good seat, but
the view is worth it. Finally many experienced Conil travelers
may tell you how expensive it is to eat breakfast. Mind
you this is all relative, but one place charged us over
8 euros for what costs 4 euros in Sevilla. Seems the bread
must be in high demand, so don't be surprised if the bill
is a little high - it's a tourist area afterall!
For lodging we opted for Hotel Oasis,
a 2 star establishment just a block from the beach. If you
request it you can get a room with a balcony with a beach
view. The rooms were clean, the location very good and we
paid 46 euros per night in late May, just before the rate
hike in June. You get cable TV, a small fridge, full bath
and air conditioning. If you don't request a balcony view
you may get a room with a window onto an interior patio,
making it less desirable. Still it's a good value for the
area.
Adventure,
Outdoors and more
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I am just starting this section, with many links to come.
It will eventually be it's own link once I have more reviews
of trips and services.
Skydivespain.com
- whether you've done it before or want to learn, they offer
several options when it comes to leaping out of a plane!
Horizonte
Vertical - a paragliding school which offers classes
and tandem rides in the Sierra Nevada National Park. We
saw them from afar when staying in a rural house in La Zubia
- they have to have some amazing views.
Green Aerostación
- just outside of Seville in Gines you can get high, as
in a hot air balloon ride which will take you just about
anywhere you want to go: Seville city, San Lucar or the
Doñana National Park. The folks running the business
were part of the only east to west crossing of the Atlantic
in a hot air balloon.
Pedalyaventura.com
- Located in Sevilla they offer guided mountain bike excursions
in Andalucia and Extremadura, with over 5,000 km of routes
to choose from. They arrange pick up at your hotel, plus
lunch at the end of the day.
Bikingandalucia.com
- Located in Granada, they can take you on mountain or road
biking tours, both guided and self-guided, in some great
locations.
Ridesierranevada.com
- 8 km outside of Granada in the town of Monachil. They'll
take you on mountain biking trails in the Sierra Nevada
National Park and offer lodging in a farm house if you wish
to stay the night.
Spirit
of Andalucia - located in Almaden de la Plata, in the
Sierra Norte just about an hour from Sevilla. Your hosts,
Natalie and Richard, will take you on some great horseback
riding through a the Natural Park there, and can arrange
for lodging, meals and other activities during your stay.
Equiberia - looking
for a long horseback riding tour? Up to 8 days with routes
in Sevilla and Huelva (as well as central Spain) that include
meals and lodging in rural accommodations.
Fincalasuerte.com
- guided horseback (day) tours in a Natural Park, along
with rural accommodations, with a guide from the British
Horse Society.
Centuresa.es
- the official page of the Sierra Nevada's Slopes - skiing
. 77 slopes when the conditions are right. Lift tickets
between 27-35 € per day depending on the season. Don't
be fooled by their English navigation, almost all of the
information in in Spanish!
Buentour.com - rent
a "ski" apartment in the Sierra Nevadas and hit
the slopes.
Sierranevadaactiva.com
- when there's no snow in the Sierra Nevada National Park
there's still plenty to do. Biking, horseback riding, camping,
canoeing and more. Plus a list of rural accommodations in
the park.
Find Hotels and
Hostals in other cities
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I am working on expanding each section above, plus adding
some new trips as well. It takes time to do the research
and organization. For now I can offer a search for hotels
in other provinces outside of Sevilla below. Soon I will
have recommendations plus photos. For now, search en enjoy
- you will find something I am sure!
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